The house or the defender?

A garage with a pit, I'm green with envy!!!


Off to Cooma.....................Now

Byeeeeee!

Kitchen? Nope. Bathroom? Nope. Straight into the garage mods, sod the house. Good stuff.

Seriously it has to be raise the roof. Lift it enough so you can take the roofrack off with a block & tackle, & secure it up there.

One-person operation then.

Regards
Max P

A barn door and some of them expensive spring loaded hinges that raise and angle the door upwards when opened.

G'day Mate,

I can tell you now that the tyre changing thing will war thin very quickly, I had a similar problem with a tandem box trailer under a carport and I used to let the tyres down and then pump them back up, that gave me the S%$#S real quick, forget it.

Options would be to modify the roof of your garage or as i read earlier maybe put two grooves in your floor for tyres to run along, without seeing your setup it's hard to make say. But the tyre groove thing would be fairly easy to do providing your floor set up allows for it. Jack hammer the slab, dig out dirt, lay more concrete, sounds ok. You may want to think if this will cause other issues though, like jack space under your car or other little bits like that.

Good luck...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by aloa9061

...Roof is Triangle shape with beams sitting on frame of the house and cross beams across the garage.

Building inspector reconned cutting the cross beams making them an inch or so shorter and rebolting a couple of inches up the roofing beams?

Anybody see any issues with this?

My other question is will the roller door have the excess space to roll further down?

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Sounds like your roof is a truss roof ( a series of "triangles" each made up of 2 rafters and a purlin braced and gang nailed together) with each separate truss sitting on the top plate of the wall frames.

Which way do the trusses run? Across the garage of front to back?

Across is better for your needs.

The problem is for moving the purlin (the bottom element) up is that it is the one part that is keeping the truss frame together and the apex of the roof where it should be. The stress in a purlin is in extension.

You should not remove it and move it up. It would be possible to fix/bolt a new purlin at a higher position, but you need to do that before cutting the original.

You will also have a problem where the truss sits on the top plate, as the purlin is used as the base. Cutting the purlin may make the support of the roof unstable. You may have to brace the stump of the purlin at each end.

What is the head over the door made of? This is important as the head may also be supporting the roof. If necessary you could use a steel lintel which will use less head room than a timber boxed head.

Me thinks that you need a builder, or at least a building framer to do the job safely.

For the roller door, if there isn't enough length, you can fit an extension to the bottom, which you may need to hinge to clear the top of the Deefer!

Diana

thanks for that,

Truss sounds right. They run across the Garage.

So for safety a builder would be best and they will need to brace the ends and stop them moving whilst placing another cross piece further up the triangle to stop it moving before any mods.

What about putting the cross member in. Cutting a defender sixed whole in the middle bars and then bolting to top cross member?

The door is bolted to wooden side supports with just hardy plank abvoe it.

The door comes with adjustable mounting points

Why not post a few pics - will be easier to see what you mean.

Will post pics once I get keys

Dig down and gu up:twisted:.

It's a big job but you can do it. It's easier with a metal shed. Father in laws shed is a monster. Neighbours still remeber the day they left for work to come home and discover the shed had grown a lot taller.

Work on the fender outside thats what i do with the disco


Adam