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Thread: Should I just give up?

  1. #1
    nolife Guest

    Should I just give up?

    Had the dream, always wanted swb Landrover. Followed up a lead and bought one that looked fine and all original. 64 Series 2A. Went to garage to get opinion re roadworthy and they advise I need:

    1. New drums, new brake cylinders and new brake shoes front and rear.
    2. New shock absorbers front and rear.
    3. New exhaust
    4. New rubber boots on all shafts and linkages
    5. New bushes and pins on springs
    6. New floor on both drivers and passengers side (rusted out)
    7. Minor plating repair chassis rear both sides
    8. New hinge pins on doors
    9. New doors, both rusted on bottom sills
    10. Electrical system rewire to be reliable
    11. New brake hoses front and rear
    12. Cross member replaced or repaired..is rusted and been repaired with body filler!
    13. Radiator support panel needs to be checked for rust..radiator bottom tank sitting on support panel and rust evident
    14. Window seals and rubbers
    15. Wipers not working
    16. New seat belts required

    and I also now have developed no clutch or brakes....soft pedals both despite endless bleeding....

    I'm not a mechanic but dont mind a bit of DIY but this list just seems just too hard....should I just cut my losses ($800) and give up?

    NoLife...

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    South Coast NSW
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    How much time do you have? They're like a big mechano set, easy to pull down and rebuild from the ground up. That would be the simplest option. You'll find a heck of a lot of bits on ebay, and have the security of knowing what's been done and what hasn't.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Caboolture.Qld
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    Do it yourself that way you will certainly get to know your Landy.

    You do not need new doors...the bottom sill piece is available as a replacement part (Check the mob in Melbourne, or Craddocks or Paddocks or Blanchard) just cut out the whole of the bottom section and mig in the new one......there problem solved.

    Brakes...could be anything from a slit hose to a master cylinder leaking., either way tis cheap to repair.

    2A's did not have seat belts.....so another problem solved.

    Chassis is box construction, unlike the Series III, and is esy to repair, get flat steel of suitable thickness etc, either from steel merchant or off another Series, cut out the section that need replacing and mig in a new piece.

    Radiator, will need checking anyway, so rip that out and off to Radiator bloke have it pressure tested to see whether leaking, they can be repaired.

    Forgot what the rest of the problems were, but hopefully you getting the idea......next time take someone with you that knows Land Rovers......personally I think you paid too much....my 64 Series IIA cost me $280 and there is minimal work to be done to it, and my 1971 Series IIA Workshop cost me $400, yep a little bit of chassis work to do but engine purrs like a cat on cream

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    Cooroy, QLD
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    Dont give up! It would really depend on what sort of use you need out of the car in the short term - is it your only transport? If not then you can take your time to sort it out - get the rust sorted out by a professional then do the rest yourself. If you need a reliable daily driver right now, then you should probably consider trading up to something with a current RWC.

    To keep it in context - you have a $800 car. You dont get much of any car for $800. When you're cruising around in the summer with the roof off it will all seem worth it.

    There's all the info you need on this site - good luck.

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Sounds like you've got $800 worth of spare parts.

    Now you know what not to look for, go out and buy something in a little better condition. The parts will come in handy.

    BTW this is the standard path for LR ownership, you're just getting in at the cheap end.

    Cheers
    Simon

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Wheelers Hill, Melbourne
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    Sounds like $800 was about $500 too high.
    A lot of that stuff is typical of a Landie of that vintage. There is a lot of work there but if you only have it as a second vehicle and a welder and grinder you can cut out the rusty bits and weld in new sections. You can buy door channel, why throw out a good door if its only the bottom that needs replacing? Same with the floor ( firewall) panels.
    Brakes etc can be bought really cheap secondhand, look at the markets section in this website. This site would be a great source of help and information if you are committed. ( After a few years Landie ownership you might need committing )
    Its easy to walk away, at least you know a lot more about landies now. However there can be great experience to be had getting stuck into it. I never knew much at all about mechanical stuff until I bought a landie ( DON'T LAUGH)

  7. #7
    mike 90 RR Guest
    If your going to go 4Wdriving in remote tracks then,
    What a great way to understand how your machine works.

    It's a cheap buy and the list ain't that bad
    It cost's $65 for new, so if you invest $5k & end up with what you desired / money well spent.

    If you can weld, swing a spanner & read a manual (Haines $45), then it shouldn't be hard
    I'ld go for it

    However, if changing a spark plug is challenge, then i would be spending a lot more dough on a new model.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Godwin Beach Qld
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    G'day Nolife

    I would suggest that you get someone with Series Landrover experience to check your vehicle out, as this looks like a Servo's idea of making a few hundred bucks out of a novice Landrover owner, 2a's have door hinge pin and bushes, which can be screw tightened, or replace pin &bush kits are about $10-12 each, unless they have measured the brake drums, they might only need a skim, that is, if they are scored, the exchange linings are under $100 per axle, I can get them for about $60 a pair/set Wheel cylinders are about $50 ea total of 4 on a SWB, the brake hoses are Part No RTC-3559 (3 of) same for front and rear unless this vehicle is a complete wreck it is probably repairable and at a reasonably cost, the rust repair panels for the floor are available from Landrovers.com.au they have both a printed and a DVD parts list available for purchase, the next thing I would advise you to get is a copy of the Haynes "Landrover Series 2/2a/3 -4cylinder Petrol workshop manual" this book is written in plain english and well illustrated, and you should be able to effect a lot of the repairs your self. there are a lot of members on here that learned all they know from stripping and rebuilding their Series Landrovers there is also a lot of help available from knowledgeable people on this forum

    cheers

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Invermay Tasmania
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    Sounds like my old series 3 ute that I had

    I remember driving to work for night shift with a fire behind the speedo


    I would repair the beast don't so be a to#@?a driver just get on with it and bring the old girl back from retairerment or sell her to me and I will do it I would love a shorty


    Adam

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    back in the suburbs, near joondalup
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    If you like it keep it !

    All the jobs you mentioned are pretty straight forward just get the Rave CD
    With the exception of the rewire/harness change, not so much hard as time consuming I would think.

    If you get a garage to do it all it'll cost you $$$$, roll your sleeves up and get stuck in

    **Before I owned a RRC the biggest repair job I had done was change spark plugs, last year I swapped my gearbox and replaced the clutch on my own, took a while though. Funnily enough it's quite enjoyable < did I just say that???

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