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Thread: Bottle jacking

  1. #1
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    Bottle jacking

    Distinguished Colleagues,

    After using the LR jack that came with Grover to rotate my wheels last weekend I decided to get myself a bottle jack - an Omega 2000kg 3 stage hydraulic jack from Repco - $60.00.

    I bought it to change flat tyres, and if I can't use it in a particular situation I'll use the LR jack - my question is this... Can I just chock the wheels, engage the diff lock and handbrake, then place this bottle jack under the axle to lift sufficiently to change the wheel over - or is it essential to use an axle stand with a bottle jack? (I'll keep the spare under the chassis too whilst up on the jack)

    And is there any particular point under the axle that I should be jacking from?

    Dan
    2007 Defender 110
    2017 Mercedes Benz C Class. Cabriolet
    1993 BMW R100LT
    2024 Triumph Bonneville T120 Black

  2. #2
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Bottle jacks and their screw predecessors have been being used without axle stands to change tyres for at least 100 years, so I can't really see a problem.

    Any convenient part of the axle can be used, I usually use the section just behind the lower link attachment at the rear, and on the weld outboard of the front radius arm at the front. Two important points - chock the other wheel on the same axle, and use a flat plate to spread the load of the jack on soft or uneven ground. And never get under the vehicle when supported only by the jack - make sure it is up high enough to clear the spare (inflated and possibly with more tread) before removing the wheel with the flat tyre.

    The previous owner of my 110 had ditched the LR jack and replaced it with a bottle jack, so i have never used anything else.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    Bottle jacks and their screw predecessors have been being used without axle stands to change tyres for at least 100 years, so I can't really see a problem....

    John
    - Thanks John - yes I am clueless.
    2007 Defender 110
    2017 Mercedes Benz C Class. Cabriolet
    1993 BMW R100LT
    2024 Triumph Bonneville T120 Black

  4. #4
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scallops View Post
    - Thanks John - yes I am clueless.
    No, I would not say that - perhaps did not think before typing or perhaps did not know a lot of motoring history.

    Chassis or bumper jacks started being used in the 1940s, but did not become common, at least in this country, until the sixties, but even then it is quite easy for people to have grown up well into adulthood without ever realising that there was another way of changing tyres, one that came first, and is still the standard for any vehicles except light passenger vehicles.

    Actually, screw axle jacks certainly go well back into the 19th century for horsedrawn vehicles, and possibly well before that, although I doubt they were in use before the introduction of screw cutting lathes at the end of the eighteenth century, by Ramsden, Wilkinson or Maudslay depending what you call the first screw cutting lathe.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  5. #5
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    wow, i'd never thought about when screw jacks were invented or used.
    dan
    the jack you have bought might need an adapter or something just to make the top of it a bit more positively secure when jacking, remind me at the meeting and i will show you the disco jack and why i say this.
    Safe Travels
    harry

  6. #6
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    Can I just say that I'm interested in getting one of these. However the problem is I still need to take my normal jack because if I have a suspension failure (like a spring break) a bottle jack isn't much use to me
     2005 Defender 110 

  7. #7
    JamesH Guest
    It seems from reading similar threads over the years here that people prefer bottle jacks. They come standard with truck cab Defenders but my Wagon has the long stem jack. I've only ever needed to use it to change tyres and luckily this hasn't occurred often enough for me to have a strong opinion about which jack is better.

    Last flat I got out on the road i think I borrowed the bottle jack from another person and it did seem easier to use.

    It is the storage of the long stem jack under the seat that can be mildly irritating and my motivation in getting a bottle jack would derive from this. I'd want to leave the stem jack behind though Capt Rightfoot's comments re fixing suspension probs are duly noted.

    What is the cause of people's dislike of the standard Defender jack - is it just ease of use/storage?

  8. #8
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    This is my main worry with them.

    Defender jack warning

    You could argue that this could happen with any jack but I think the defender one is far more prone to it.
     2005 Defender 110 

  9. #9
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    ok if you all want a good jack, try to source a disco one jack, it's a little beauty.
    Safe Travels
    harry

  10. #10
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    for your bottle jack making the cradle is easy if you know someone with a welder or arent bad with one yourself.

    just get a section of steel tube thats about 3mm wall and is about the right size for the inner section of your jack to extend up into cut this to about 1/2 the length of the skinniest section of your jack then taper the inside edge of the bit that will be the bottom.

    next grab some 3.5 or 4 inch diameter 3-4mm wall pipe and cut a section that is just a little wider than the outside diameter of the piece of pipe youve already worked to size.

    cut a section about 1/6-1/8th of the circumfrence of the 4 inch pipe and weld the first bit of pipe to the middle of the outside of this section so that you wind up with a Y looking piece of metal.

    Providing all your cuts are square this thing will easily locate itself onto the beam of the axle on any rover with beam axles AND as its not attached to the jack if you cant get it to balance over the ram of the jack then the jack is not sufficiently level for jacking with and you need to take action.

    providing you dont make the tolerances too tight and get the bottom inside chamfer correct when you goto jack the outside sections will rise and then once the adaptor comes into contact the center will start to rise till its touching the bottom of the curve of the y and will take most of the weight.

    you do need to be cautios that the chamfer doesnt allow the adaptor to wedge down on the supporting section as while it wont affect the working of the jack it will jam on potentially making removal impossable or splitting the pipe.

    Best of luck with it.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

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