Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 21

Thread: Teach me to drive a Series 3 diesel please

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    WA
    Posts
    13,786
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by emus View Post
    Can it be driven for long periods in low range 4wd on dirt? Up to what speed?
    What is the approximate top speed of the diesel in high? Can top speed be continued for prolonged periods with the diesel safely?
    Top speed is as fast as you are game to drive it - but realistically, 30mph or so in low range and 60 or so in high. When I had an overdrive fitted to mine it would happily sit at 70mph all day (except for big hills). Now I have removed the OD, it will easily sit at 60 or 65, but I prefer to sit at 55mph or so.

    But I did do this speed for a day or 2 across the Nullarbor:

    As JD said above - lower speeds are better for the engine and fuel consumption - but it never got over 11.5L/100 - even though it was heavily laden.


    Do these things overheat readily? The motor's still tight one this one, only about 50 kms since full overhaul, and shows just above the middle of the heat range on the dial at times.
    They aren't prone to overheating, but you need to look after the cooling system. The temperature sender is at the back of the head - so the hottest point. It will climb quite high on the gauge when you are driving up steep hills in summer - the highest it has been on mine is 1/4" or so below the red bit when climbing cunningham's gap (or similar), but it drops very quickly once you get over the top. If you overheat the engine they are prone to cracking the tips off the injector nozzles, or dropping precombustion chambers, either one usually means a rebuild. The middle is fine - but possibly a bit of a concern as it is winter. With the recent weather here, I can only get it to leave the white bit if it is working hard.

    The local country diesel engineer who did up the motor delivered it back to the owner ,with it light grey smoking quite heavily on idle. The engineer explained that the reconditioned injector pump needed a special Land Roverfactory tool to fine tune the pump, and he didn't have one. Is this likely to be correct? And if so , does anyone know someone with the tool in Adelaide able correct this for less than an arm and a leg (the ute cost me less than his reconditioning bill)
    Is it grey or blue/white? Sounds like valve stem seals if the latter colour. White smoke means the pump is too retarded, black smoke too advanced or overfueling. If it isn't blue smoke, then there is a pumpo/timing problem. You do not need any special tools to set the timing properly if you know what you are doing.

    I've read with interest in this Forum re Fish'n'chip shop canola oil being used in diesels,.........might this be possible in mine? Does it need to be thinned down with distillate? On what ratio?
    If anyone has an old handbook or workshop manual for sale ,I'd be interested
    The CAV DPA pump which your engine has, doesn't take well to the higher viscosity of veg oil, as there is a fine scroll inside the injector pump, which can be sheared/damaged. Biodiesel would be fine though, or possibly a blend of veg oil and something else, but there are a lot of unknown with doing this - unless you can accurately measure viscosity and lubricity of your blend then I wouldn't like your chances of long term IP/Injector life.

    The other questions have been covered comprehensively...

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Melb. Vic.
    Posts
    6,045
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by isuzurover View Post
    But I did do this speed for a day or 2 across the Nullarbor:
    HOW'S YOUR HEARING? - I wouldn't of believed it if I hadn't seen it.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    WA
    Posts
    13,786
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Sleepy View Post
    HOW'S YOUR HEARING? - I wouldn't of believed I hadn't seen it.
    Fine! - we went through 2 packets or earplugs though...

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    6,078
    Total Downloaded
    0
    On my old petrol series 2a with a ported head and su carb I manged to get the speedo past the oil pressure light

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    WA
    Posts
    13,786
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Psimpson7 View Post
    On my old petrol series 2a with a ported head and su carb I manged to get the speedo past the oil pressure light
    That's better than me - the 2.25P I built with OS pistons, extractors, etc, had a good top end - I wound it off the clock (needle was about where the 6 is on the odo) on the Newell Highway.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Safety Bay
    Posts
    8,041
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I have had two worked 2.25 petrols,one with an OD,the other with RR centres and both would run off the speedo.There is no need for holden engines. Pat

  7. #17
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    29,521
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by PAT303 View Post
    I have had two worked 2.25 petrols,one with an OD,the other with RR centres and both would run off the speedo.There is no need for holden engines. Pat
    As far as I can see the only reasons for fitting a Holden engine are that it was cheaper than overhauling your clapped out 2.25, and parts were easier and cheaper to get.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  8. #18
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    29,521
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by PAT303 View Post
    I have had two worked 2.25 petrols,one with an OD,the other with RR centres and both would run off the speedo.There is no need for holden engines. Pat
    As far as I can see the only reasons for fitting a Holden engine are that it was cheaper than overhauling your clapped out 2.25, and parts were easier and cheaper to get.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  9. #19
    emus Guest
    JDNSW...........John,.............what a fantastic reply,.........thank you so much

    and I'll keep you posted on the smoking/valve stem issue,..(hope you're wrong!)

    cheers Pete

  10. #20
    emus Guest
    ISUZUROVER............great response, thanks indeed,............what a great group of people on this Forum!

    cheers Pete

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!