Getting more from a series 2.25

in theory you should be able to drop in a de turbod tdi 200, depending on the age of the vehicle you may not have to go an engineers certificate providing you dont have to move mounts on the chassis to get it to fit and you'd probabley get away without having to do a brake upgrade as well.[/QUOTE]

So if it is a series 3 I should have less problems may not have to go an engineers certificate compared to a series 2 or it should not matter. Does a 200 or 300 Tdi motor require moving of the mounts. Engineers certificates are not cheap from what I under stand (around $800 I'm told) Could buy a few mods to a standard 2.25 diesel that would see it sit on 100 kms with a high ratio tranfer case or overdrive unit.

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Originally Posted by garryseries3

How much power? Enough to not destroy the drive train in the process and still give it good reliabilty.
Garry

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most of the mods I posted above are free or very cheap. It would be worth trying them before an engine swap.

Make sure the timing is properly set up too. Retiming the pump probably made as much difference as anything else.

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Originally Posted by garryseries3

So if it is a series 3 I should have less problems may not have to go an engineers certificate compared to a series 2 or it should not matter. Does a 200 or 300 Tdi motor require moving of the mounts. Engineers certificates are not cheap from what I under stand (around $800 I'm told) Could buy a few mods to a standard 2.25 diesel that would see it sit on 100 kms with a high ratio tranfer case or overdrive unit.

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the newer the vehicle the more certifications works your likely to need...

kermit (66IIa) doesnt need any certification work on it (for the mods Im doing) because it predates most of the ADR's and its complience with the ADR's that the certifications are for...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by garryseries3

in theory you should be able to drop in a de turbod tdi 200, depending on the age of the vehicle you may not have to go an engineers certificate providing you dont have to move mounts on the chassis to get it to fit and you'd probabley get away without having to do a brake upgrade as well.

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So if it is a series 3 I should have less problems may not have to go an engineers certificate compared to a series 2 or it should not matter. Does a 200 or 300 Tdi motor require moving of the mounts. Engineers certificates are not cheap from what I under stand (around $800 I'm told) Could buy a few mods to a standard 2.25 diesel that would see it sit on 100 kms with a high ratio tranfer case or overdrive unit.[/QUOTE]

I doubt this would be the case - but you would need to check with vicroads or an engineer. In QLD you don't need approval if changing to an optional engine - but a tdi wasn't an optio nor a series.

Dave - the QLD blue/mod plate system applies to all vehicles regardless of age.

Slight thread hijack warning:

Could you slot a 200tDi into to series 3 petrol without changing running gear and box etc? maybe just engine mounts?

Jim

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Originally Posted by Jimmy

Slight thread hijack warning:

Could you slot a 200tDi into to series 3 petrol without changing running gear and box etc? maybe just engine mounts?

Jim

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The 200tdi shares the same bolt pattern as the 2.25P/D, (apart from 1 stud apparently), so YES.

You may need to move the engine mounts (some say no, some say it is better to move them), and you need to relocate the battery or lift it 4" or so.

EDIT - however there is a big difference between the disco and defender 200tdi. To fit a disco 200, you either need to fit a defender manifold/turbo, or make a VERY compact dump pipe to clear the footwell.

An improvement can be made relatively cheaply by getting a set of extractors and a decent sized straight through exhaust system. The inefficient inlet manifold can be improved by making a one into two into four system which gives equal distribution and minimises the effect of one cylinder's intake pulses on another. Port out the head, three angle valve job, swirl polish the valves and port match the manifolds and gaskets to the head. Send the injection pump off to a diesel room and have the fuel delivery increased and the governor tickled up a couple of hundred rpm. These mods will give a noticeable improvement in performance and will use a bit more fuel. If you aren't fed, you won't work either.

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Originally Posted by isuzurover

Dave - the QLD blue/mod plate system applies to all vehicles regardless of age.

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Not quite...

because of the age of the vehicle providing I am only going from OEM hardware to OEM hardware availalbe for the vehicle then Im ok....

Im going from 2.25 petrol to 2.25 diesel thats ok... both engines were available at the time of manufacture
Ive gone to the LWB brakes again Ok as i didnt have to modify anything to make them fit and IVe increased the braking ability of the vehicle using OEM parts designed to fit original components
The gear box swap was a suffix change so again no problem.
swapping to the sals might have been a problem But since I havent touched the chassis sides of the mounts just the axle side and its all bolted under compression and I have no lift from it thats cool as well..

so sayeth the RTA and a local vehicle inspection place....

Thanks everyone for the responses so far, I will check with the RTA here in Vic about mods anyway. Fitting a salsbury to a 2A SWB does not leave much room for the tail shaft and would it really need one stuck behind a 2.25 or
200 non turbo diesel , how much torque can a rover diff handle reliably.

This project is pretty flexible I have a Holden 202 in the shorty presently which I understand will either at any moment, pop a rear piston and or rip the guts out of the drivetrain while in the process of consuming large quanities of fuel at an unreasonable amount of revs for this motor. 202 where never a good high revving motor lots of torque though.
Sold on upgrading the brakes to3" LBW have sorted parts for the project complete with single system series 3 booster, which should work well. Stopping is pretty important but of cause I still wish to get it up to a good speed to stop.

What can the box take power wise and for that matter a rover or salsbury diff, it a bit like the saying a (drive) chain is only as good as its weakest link.
Garry

depends on what your going to be doing with it...

Ive only ever broken 1 axle in a series (SWB petrol IIA being very stupid doing burnouts on wet clay got carried away and kept it lit up as it hit the black top)

providing your not going to be stupid with it or tow tanks with it then the stock gear in a series should be fine. I fitted up a sals to kermit for a couple of reasons

1. I had one just laying around
2. I tow lots
3. Kermit is going to be carrying a lot more than your standard SWB should.