I thought crush cans were only on bars where the car had SRS airbags?
Xav
I thought crush cans were only on bars where the car had SRS airbags?
Xav
Hi Xavie,
Your thought is correct.
Best Wishes,
Peter
tic tic
whats that skip?
A land rover you say
With a black bullbar you say
thanks skip we will send help straight away
cheers
chaser
Glad you are ok. Doesn't look pretty
Mate had a 6 footer land on his bonet in a Dato 1200. Bent the front crossmember so it was touchingthe ground with the tyres still inflated.
I have only hit 1 so far and it didn't do any damage.
I do count the Roo's each day on the way to work.
I have too many skippy stories to relate here, but a classic one concerned my aunt who was driving a mini moke from the farm house down to the highway to check the mail, a western red came through the passenger side curtains of the moke, trashed the interior and missed my aunt with its claws by millimetres, then took the drivers side complete canvas cutain with it when it jumped out.
Skippy damage, through and through
BTW g'futtock, you ARE fortunate for having a bar, but those factory bars are Stainless and VERY tough. Get the chassis CAREFULLY inspected by the assessor, especially the front crossmember. If anyone has tried to straighten these factory LR bars, they'll know EXACTLY what I mean. I have trouble drilling holes in them
JC
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
Apparently most of the force was higher up and the bars bent. The panel beater said he checked the chassis etc, and said it was all fine. Radiator, heat exchanger/condenser & fan, stuffed. He said it is about $6'500 ATM but will not know the exact figure till he pulls everything off
As for the factory bar being stainless, well I do not know anything about that, there was some evidence of surface rust where the bar that held the lights was welded to the upright. I believe there are some stainless steels that do rust a little bit. You may know a lot more that me on that.
He told me the orignal bar is no longer available through LR discontinued he was told and quoted on a winch bar from TJM
Some stainless steels do rust, but also stainless steel often can have rust stains due to traces of tool steel left on it from tools used to machine it, particularly drilling.
justinc - Most stainless steels work harden, which means they can be very difficult to drill unless you use a very sharp drill and a fairly fast feed to make sure that the drill does not spin on the surface without cutting, as if it does so, it will be almost impossible to drill.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Your right there John. I just had to fit a ARB winch bar to a 2000 110 after an insurance claim due to the unavailability of the factory bars.
The bar that came off this one was reversed into by a bobcat at about 25km/hr, it had tow rings in the front channel, and one of these was hole punched almost through the steel by the impact.
The centre bar was bent, and the whole bar had a twist/ distortion.
New winch bar looks better I think
JC
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
Just had an update on the insurance claim.
The radiator, intercooler, and heat exchanger are stuffed, as well as the clutch on the fan.
The bloke rekons about $9500 without adding things up excatly.
The problem is that they need to replace the top air conditioning pipe as it has a bend in it and it is a U.K. supply part only (JUE 110330)So it looks like it will be off the road for a while yet.
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