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Thread: OK show us your shed!!!!

  1. #371
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    350RRC is offline ForumSage Silver Subscriber
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    If you do it yourself it's better to do the slab with footings under first IME, rather than footings then shed then slab.

    Roller doors are exxy and the more you have the more exxy it gets.

    I did all of mine from set out for the slab to the spout. The only help was with with the roof sheeting from a mate who is a gun roofer.

    Roof was going to take me 2 days on my own, but the wind wouldn't stop blowing and there was a one day no wind window on a Saturday so I got him to help.

    DL

  2. #372
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    Where are people buying, er, "economical" sheds these days. Best sheds has 12 x 12 x 4.2 sheds for $14,000 listed on there website. My brother is lookiing at putting up a cheap shed in the paddock down here.... I reckon 12 x 12 is a little small. 20 x 12 would probably be better for his use ( caravan sales and repair ). Does anyone else have suggestions on where to buy price friendlly shed kits

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    See thats the thing, a $14k shed isn't a $14k shed. You may very well double that finished depending on your situation.

    For me a shed that cost a little over $20k, the overall cost was pretty literally doubled to $45k when complete. That was made up of, earthworks ($10k, there was a lot for me, fill, batton, gravel, drainage fall), slab (incl pier drilling), erection... of the shed, wiring (sub box, inside/outside with lights all double switched, power 3ph, 10a, 15a and data) and plumbing (rainwater and pumped).
    Cheers
    Slunnie


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  3. #373
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slunnie View Post
    See thats the thing, a $14k shed isn't a $14k shed. You may very well double that finished depending on your situation.

    For me a shed that cost a little over $20k, the overall cost was pretty literally doubled to $45k when complete. That was made up of, earthworks ($10k, there was a lot for me, fill, batton, gravel, drainage fall), slab (incl pier drilling), erection... of the shed, wiring (sub box, inside/outside with lights all double switched, power 3ph, 10a, 15a and data) and plumbing (rainwater and pumped).
    Thanks GUys,

    yes I understand this. The area is flat, but I have someone local with a bobcat that can level it cheaply enough.



    This is what I mean. The shed could be accessed from the side paddock. The line of trees is down a fence line, so its seperated from the house. The green shed there is a 12 x 7.5 meter shed with a 6 meter leanto off one side (where the colour is a different shade). So the shed he is looking at would be a similar size. But not a uselessly low thing only cars can fit in (2.4 wall height ... with much less height under the leanto). The stormwater could be run straight behind into that easement across the paddock.... It would be about 4meters from the existing shed. I'm thinking you would just run the power through an aerial conduit between them (so it would cost next to nothing). The existing shed has 40amp wiring to it from memory, the biggest allowed from the street. I'm probably going to run data from the house to the existing shed at some point, so it could also run across to this shed with the power. I can run water over there easily enough with some lengths of pipe. I have a ripper behind the tractor that will work fine for running a water pipe over there (and allow me to install some taps away from the house at the same time) ... it would need to have a composting toilet put into it (downhill and a long distance from the house septic).

    I'm thinking possibly $20k to lockup. I'd need to investigate slab thickness and costings (the money to build it would need to be borrowed either way). The money being thrown away on rent at the moment is just insane. That is $60k he has spent on rent for the shed he hires over the last 3years. So I'm guessing cost isn't a big issue if it turns out to be a little more.

    This would only be for a couple of years until they found some land to shift onto, then he can setup a decent shed at his own house.... At this point, the new shed would be mine to use.

    Roller doors are very expensive. You could soon make up a few sliding doors if required (they do bang a lot in winds though). I never see them on commercial sheds. I'm not sure why given how cheap they would be in comparison. Maybe they aren't as weather tight.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
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  4. #374
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    Geez Shane, you've got som big pigeons down your way!
    If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
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  5. #375
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    Thanks GUys,

    yes I understand this. The area is flat, but I have someone local with a bobcat that can level it cheaply enough.



    This is what I mean. The shed could be accessed from the side paddock. The line of trees is down a fence line, so its seperated from the house. The green shed there is a 12 x 7.5 meter shed with a 6 meter leanto off one side (where the colour is a different shade). So the shed he is looking at would be a similar size. But not a uselessly low thing only cars can fit in (2.4 wall height ... with much less height under the leanto). The stormwater could be run straight behind into that easement across the paddock.... It would be about 4meters from the existing shed. I'm thinking you would just run the power through an aerial conduit between them (so it would cost next to nothing). The existing shed has 40amp wiring to it from memory, the biggest allowed from the street. I'm probably going to run data from the house to the existing shed at some point, so it could also run across to this shed with the power. I can run water over there easily enough with some lengths of pipe. I have a ripper behind the tractor that will work fine for running a water pipe over there (and allow me to install some taps away from the house at the same time) ... it would need to have a composting toilet put into it (downhill and a long distance from the house septic).

    I'm thinking possibly $20k to lockup. I'd need to investigate slab thickness and costings (the money to build it would need to be borrowed either way). The money being thrown away on rent at the moment is just insane. That is $60k he has spent on rent for the shed he hires over the last 3years. So I'm guessing cost isn't a big issue if it turns out to be a little more.

    This would only be for a couple of years until they found some land to shift onto, then he can setup a decent shed at his own house.... At this point, the new shed would be mine to use.

    Roller doors are very expensive. You could soon make up a few sliding doors if required (they do bang a lot in winds though). I never see them on commercial sheds. I'm not sure why given how cheap they would be in comparison. Maybe they aren't as weather tight.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Big sliding doors are a great option and I have made and fitted dozens of them on commercial buildings. They are very easy to weather proof and stop banging. One of the secrets to it is make them ground bearing and not hang off a top track. They also provide slightly better height clearance. More details and pics if you need them.👍

  6. #376
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    Quote Originally Posted by pop058 View Post
    Big sliding doors are a great option and I have made and fitted dozens of them on commercial buildings. They are very easy to weather proof and stop banging. One of the secrets to it is make them ground bearing and not hang off a top track. They also provide slightly better height clearance. More details and pics if you need them.👍
    That is interesting. How do you make them ground bearing without the tracks becoming full of rocks and rubbish and seizing them up This would certainly stop them banging!
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    Modern Junk:
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  7. #377
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    That is interesting. How do you make them ground bearing without the tracks becoming full of rocks and rubbish and seizing them up This would certainly stop them banging!
    I will dig some pics out tomorrow for you.

  8. #378
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    That is interesting. How do you make them ground bearing without the tracks becoming full of rocks and rubbish and seizing them up This would certainly stop them banging!
    When I built my shed, I put in a 3x3 meter sliding door. Good rollers at the top and either end on the ground I put a channel about 200mm long with a 4mm gap. along the bottom of the door I welded A 25 x 3 mm angle iron. The channel used to self clean. When the door was open it slid up into a wedge at the tend of its travel as a max door opening stop. Never rattled and always move with the tip of a couple fingers.
    cheers
    blaze

  9. #379
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    We have 4 double hinge door so have either 2,4,6 or 8 metre clear span,usually 4 metre and open to 6 for hoist access and 8 when using the crane


    AM
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  10. #380
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    Quote Originally Posted by pop058 View Post
    I will dig some pics out tomorrow for you.
    the first pic is from the " Elgate " catalogue (same company as Eltrak).

    roller and track.jpg

    Others are from one we built a few years ago. There is still a top track but it is only used as a guide. The ground tracks are only 15mm high so forklift friendly ( if there is such a thing ) and double pinned to the slab every 300 mm or so.

    014 (2).jpg 018.jpg 023.jpg 032.jpg 017.jpg 041.jpg

    Another job. This one had 9 sliders.

    023.jpg

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