Diesel info for cold climates

**clean32** · 1st March 2009, 12:12 PM

Originally Posted by Brian Hjelm

I spent a little time in the US in a winter and some of the truckers from the snow belt had plumbed a pipe about 1 1/2" - 2" diameter into the exhaust stacks and ran it to blow hot gases onto the bottom of a fuel tank at the outlet fitting. Much like ships run exhaust gases through pipes in the fuel bunkers to liquify the low grade muck they run on. I loved the electric outlets on posts in the parking lots at truck stops, like the speaker stands at drive-in theatres, to plug block heaters into whilst parked.

I once used to sell a range of earthmoving equipment made in Minnesota and the standard equipment included a 110 volt block heater and lead.

Sounds smart, I was in northern china then Russia, electricity supply is not what we expect it to be, a couple of wire coat hangers on wooden poles hanging from the cables out on the street. in Russia some of the local machines had like BBQ plates in the bottom of the sumps so you could light a fire. To get started in the morning, the coolant was drained at night, boiled in 44 gallon drums in the morning then refilled hot. Usually done 2 or 3 times, drain boil fill, drain boil fill. And you took the batteries to bed with you at night. With the limited light or day light hours, road conditions, crappy russin trucks you were lucky to make 3-400 klms a day in some areas. IF you think Australia is big Russia is Friggen Huge. You can only travel in most of the country either in winter or summer. Autumn or spring is usually to wet to go any where, or the roads have losed there ice base and are closed to trucks anyway.
Even roads close to Moscow are closed to trucks in spring.

**Hoodoo Brown** · 1st March 2009, 02:48 PM

All the information can be gained from a phone call to the chem lab at Shell.

Changeover date for Winter mix used to be 17th March universally, now it depends when the local agent requests it.An early cold snap a few years ago left most diesels in Alice Springs stranded till suppliers of winter/Alpine mix arrived from the east coast.

Back up diesels for telecommunications accross the Nullabor (Too damn hot,too damn cold) required the use of Winter mix at all times, usually shipped from the east coast at a huge cost penalty.

Carry an electric heat gun (no naked flame if possible) to de wax the fuel in the pump and lines if you are desperate, park it in the sunshine and wait, that's the NRMA solution.

If you know you are going to be caught, add 10% kero to the total fuel carried, before nightfall, this reduces the fuel dew point and may stop the wax build up happening, dependant on temperature.

**Blknight.aus** · 1st March 2009, 04:01 PM

Originally Posted by B92 8NW

It also says, although in more elegant words, to add 30% petrol (

) to the tank every now and then and flog the engine to buggery to keep the injection system in GC. Naturally I'd discourage this in any radially injected LR

.

you put 30 % per vol of petrol into diesel and then try to run it and you are going to turn your pistons inside out.

**Sleepy** · 1st March 2009, 04:24 PM

Not being a fan of cold weather I have never had to worry about Alpine Mix. So, a couple of questions from a flat-lander:

What is in Alpine Mix that makes it different to normal Diesel fuel?
Is there an commercial additive that you can add rather than refill with Alpine Mix? (Obviously the 30% petrol is not a good idea)
What happens if you don't use Alpine? (I assume it has to do with Wax forming)

**clean32** · 1st March 2009, 04:53 PM

Originally Posted by Sleepy

Not being a fan of cold weather I have never had to worry about Alpine Mix. So, a couple of questions from a flat-lander:

What is in Alpine Mix that makes it different to normal Diesel fuel?]

Its better quality, like Jet A1 ior Kerro, normal diesel is where thay dump all the crap out of the good stuff.

Originally Posted by Sleepy
Is there an commercial additive that you can add rather than refill with Alpine Mix? (Obviously the 30% petrol is not a good idea)]

**B92 8NW** · 1st March 2009, 05:09 PM

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

you put 30 % per vol of petrol into diesel and then try to run it and you are going to turn your pistons inside out.

I'm reading straight out of the owners manual. Of course, that manual is applicable to ONE specific diesel engine.

**Bigbjorn** · 1st March 2009, 06:54 PM

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

you put 30 % per vol of petrol into diesel and then try to run it and you are going to turn your pistons inside out.

I'm with you on this. Just think of the added wear and tear on micro finished pumps and injectors as well. Distillate is a lubricant.

**Blknight.aus** · 1st March 2009, 07:06 PM

ID buy 30% petrol as a starting and clearing mix but thats it Ive been known to give a cantankerous cold diesel a cap full of petrol over the aircleaner to get it to fire but thats a bout it for petrol.

I usually recommend about 1l in 30 of kero to diesel (given that kero is basically extra refined diesel without the additives package) and driving round for at least 15 minutes before shutting down.

But as its been mentioned, you dont have to worry about that here, servos change over to the alpine stuff before they need to so if your going over the snow line and plan on staying overnight either garage it, pre heat it with hot air guns (in a pinch your wifes hair drier aimed at the injector pump and lines with a blanket over the hood and grill will get you started without too much hassle) OR fill up at a servo over the snow line.

**Sleepy** · 1st March 2009, 08:16 PM

One more stupid question if I may:

If the servo's change over so early, is there a risk when using Alpine Diesel in hotter climates?

**B92 8NW** · 1st March 2009, 08:17 PM

Originally Posted by Sleepy

One more stupid question if I may:

If the servo's change over so early, is there a risk when using Alpine Diesel in hotter climates?

No risk, maybe reduced fuel economy or performance. Others may correct.

Thread: Diesel info for cold climates

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