That's the ticket .... In the event of a big blow .... It becomes part of a major structural component of the wall panel .... The window should be boarded up
Mike
:)
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Thanks again Mike.
Really appreciate the hints
S
Do you have bridging between the girts? I'm guessing not from what you have said, and I don't have span tables with me to tell if you would need it at that span (3m is a lot less than what I'm accustomed to).
The sheeting will add strength to the girts. On the inside (opposite sheeting) you could run diagonal bracing on each side of the window in a 'V' to take load from the girts below the window, diagonally up to the top most girt near where it attaches to the columns on either side of the window. The bracing would only need to be galvanised flat and tek screwed to each girt it passes over. IMHO this would be cheaper and easier than 75 angle.
For that load/case, the angle will have to have full lateral restraint, which is not the case in this instance.
Angles make very poor beam members because the they are not symmetrical, which inclines the principal axii. When loaded they want to twist. Although in this case the sheeting will help to resist the twisting if it is screwed to the vertical leg.
Have you thought about running the Angle/RHS in the underside of the Girt so that the window can mount out on the girts and be flush with wall sheets or close.
The girst are braced by the Sheeting and window side jambs will be C 150 15 and bolting and angle to the girts and caring it to the girt cleats on the posts and using HT bolt on cleat through Cleat girt and angle. One less bracket.
If you where worried re cleat that could be Gusseted.
If you dont understand this i can draw sketch.
Cheers Allan
Hope this works and you can open attached what i was talking about
Attachment 14323
Thankyou all.
4wd4fun, thats a great idea I had contemplated.
The problem with just using the girt will be the point load of a 3/8 bolt supporting the weight of the window.
By running some angle inside the girt, the point load can be spread to the columns. Maybe using bracing as per Johns' suggestion to strengthen the wall frame.
I like the concept. Thanks again
Steve
You have some good ideas given. I would use R12 threaded rod or just thread the ends of some plain round rod as diagonals. This should be easiest and cheapest. If the window is in the girt line it will be much easier to flash for waterproofing.
See detail attached.
Regards
John D - Defender 110 2.4
The cross bracing for the columns has been specified on the draws as 16mm rod.
I expect I will use the same when bracing for these frames.
For the columns I will get 16mm round gal dipped, then on site weld turnbuckles and plates in place and bolt to cleats on the columns. For the window frames I will need to work out an attachment to the stud/girt junction?
Steve
Thanks again - the power of AULRO expanding your ideas!