Probably the same method used in abseiling. I saw it used by the cliff rescue team of the Norfolk Island VRA.
See page 12 of this document: http://home.vicnet.net.au/~vbac/al_man/Mod7.pdf
Hoping some one can help out with this. The guy I seen do it was ex army recovery team and said it was used to winch out tanks.
I seen him set up a 10 ton winch on top of a hill, attached to 5 (I think) star pickets just over the top of the hill and right a 80hp tractor that had a front end loader on it that had rolled. For the life of me I cant remember how he had the star pickets linked by the anchor rope, he said if its not right you are wasting your time. Come to think of it he wasnt using star pickets but rods about 3 foot long with an eye on top.
Any clues
Thought a 3 star pickets would be a handy think to have in my kit for my solo trip for self winching when no suitable anchor point was available (easier than burying the spare wheel)
cheers
blaze
Probably the same method used in abseiling. I saw it used by the cliff rescue team of the Norfolk Island VRA.
See page 12 of this document: http://home.vicnet.net.au/~vbac/al_man/Mod7.pdf
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
I reckon thats it Ron, I reckon he had 3 in the rear row, 2 in the second row and one in the front. The safe working load of the 3 is on 300kgs in the diagram, be a bit light to drag a 4x4 over a dune I would think but probable as good as a buried spare wheel
thanks
cheers
blaze
It's called a 3-2-1 hold fast. 3 pickets driven (2/3 of the length) into the ground together at a 45* angle, then 2, then 1. The spacing is such as to permit the top of each set of pickets to be lashed to the bottom of the picket(s) behind, at a 90* angle.
I hope this is understandable.
If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
The Army used to use a system of hold fast pins which were knocked into the ground through a special cast steel frame with holes in it which linked the pins together and allowed a D shackel to be fitted.
These frames can be used in series or parallel linked together to give any required amount of fixed anchor point capacity.
The pins have a eye or hole in them so another pin can be pushed half way though the hole and two blokes grab the hozional pin and twisted the pins which have been knocked in up wards to release them when packing up.
It is a good system for heavy pulls in most types of terrain with time and elbow grease.
you dont need the plates if you have pickets.
you need to be bloody patient and enduring with the picket driver......
the first picket goes in for about 4 feet (using a 6 foot picket) and is lashed back to 2 other pickets.... the 2 pickets are placed about 2 feet apart and back so that when you lash the top of the picket to the bottom of the next 2 the line makes a perpendicular to both pickets(the one at the front and the ones at the rear.
you then extend this one more set with 3 pickets...
-------x
------/-\
-----x---x
----/-\-/-\
---x---x---x
the pickets go where the x's are.
I suspect thats whats in rons PDF but its not loading for me.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
We used these to debog mail cars out around Winton in the 50's and 60's. As Dave blknight described. You pull on the the single picket (the lock forward if you compare to a Rugby League scrum). We used two rows of fencing wire from the picket to the car and another picket to wind up the wire as a Spanish windlass. Slow but works.
URSUSMAJOR
The 3 - 2 - 1 star picket method was taught as part of the Heavy Rescue course when I was in the SES.
We utilised it a fair bit when we needed to strain a flying fox, or as an anchor point for recoveries.
It works well, and if more strength is needed, then you just add another row of pickets at the front, so that you end up with a 4 - 3 - 2 - 1 system.
However, the front would always be where the most pickets was, and ground level was your pulling point.
The other point is that the angles need to be correct (45 degrees), and the lashings secure.
Would I use it to recover a vehicle? I refuse to comment without seeing the situation. In the right circumstances, yes. But only cause I have done it.
Last edited by Basil135; 15th June 2009 at 11:03 AM. Reason: Clarity
nooooo
do not got past a 1-2-3
by the time you get to that level if you are still pulling the #1 picket out then you have exceeded the loadability of a star picket.
if you need more anchorage you should be setting up 2 sets.
90% of the landrover recoveries Ive used it for did not need more than a 1-2 configuration.
my personal preference although it is not officially supported is to lay in 2x 1-2 configurations and then run an equalising strap
if you lay it in the other way 3-2-1 (pulling from the 3) you need an equaliser setup across all 3 of the anchors to establish maximum pull.
which way you set it up and use it depends on how much pull you want to put down, how much gear youve got and whats going to happen during the pull..
in a real pinch you can just run a single line of pickets but you have no lateral stability with that.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
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