actually its the bloody spell checkers fault.
I originally wrote cro and it flagged it so I corrected it
I've only had one coffee, its late. Thats my excuse, Im sticking to it. Prove other wise....
:)
(good pickup, cheers.)
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actually its the bloody spell checkers fault.
I originally wrote cro and it flagged it so I corrected it
I've only had one coffee, its late. Thats my excuse, Im sticking to it. Prove other wise....
:)
(good pickup, cheers.)
Good one Dave, I'll pay that:DQuote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
I had to re-weld our D2 drivers door stay back onto the pillar - original weld broke.
Local mechanics said not to weld without a spike suppressor which I borrowed for the job.
http://img73.imageshack.us/img73/7417/july15016.jpg
You leave the battery connected and connect this across the terminals. I'd say this is what the exhaust shops use.
Erich
Do you disconnect the positive, negative, or both??
Either/or;)Quote:
Originally Posted by stooge
I've learnt the hard way to always disconnect negative first. That way, if you accidentally touch on bodywork / brackets etc with your spanner while also touching the battery terminal - nothing will happen.Quote:
Originally Posted by stooge
If you disconnect positive first and touch something with your spanner, you can easily create an arc. I did this once (wasn't thinking - should have known better) in my F100 - the battery exploded and I got my face and arms covered in acid. Luckily, SWMBO was standing nearby and quickly grabbed a bucket of water, and no real harm done.
For the same reason, when installing / connecting a battery, always connect positive first, and then negative.
For welding, I always drop off the negative lead only.