Sorry Deano, I'll have to go back & read it through ... it was the beer I tell you ... :D:D
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Originally Posted by DeanoH
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Sorry Deano, I'll have to go back & read it through ... it was the beer I tell you ... :D:D
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Originally Posted by DeanoH
WHAT, YOU'VE RUN OUT !!!!!!!!!????????:eek::eek::eek::eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by Panda
Nah, just me being clever. :D There is actually an external combustion engine. This is where heat is applied externally to the 'cylinder'. The concept has been around for several hundred years.
During WW2 external combustion engines were used as lifeboat engines, also Philips made small generators using an external combustion engine back in the 1960's I think. There was talk of them being used in submarines as there is no 'bang' as in....... suck, push, bang, blow, as they are very quiet and the submarine is less likely to get a torpedo up its clacker. I'm just full of useles info today, or as SWMBO would say ......'just full of it'. :(
As far as run down torque is concerned I've got no idea. But in your original post about it you mentioned a pin popping or something that made me think of a torque wrench reaching tension. Am I close ???:confused:
Deano
To answer my own question
The purpose of an internal combustion engine, is to convert chemical energy into mechanical energy by burning the chemical in a confined space under pressure.
Which intern creates a reciprocal motion (piston going up and down) which intern is converted into rotary motion in the crank shaft via the con rods.
To see how an external engine works google hot air engine
Hodgo
No, certainly haven't run out ... have to concentrate on my mechanicing too much this evening though ... so may have a couple later. :D
Regarding the "run down torque" ... no, I don't think so. But hence my question, as I don't really understand it. From what I can gather, damaged threads, for example, or foreign material (from the bolts not being properly cleaned), can cause a certain amount of resistance, before "drawing" the parts together. This is apparently "run down torque". Apparently, it's not always noticeable (which is of concern to me, not being experienced enough to know the difference). However, if you do come across "run down torque" you have to add it to the recommended torque. Yes, that's right, I'm getting more & more confused. lol. You're supposed to determine "run down torque" during the last couple of turns ... and how the hell you're supposed to know how to add it to the recommended torque is beyond me .... :eek:
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Originally Posted by DeanoH
you're not related to dave are you ? :unsure:Quote:
Originally Posted by hodgo
Deano
ummmm, unless this is one of your trick questions .... the combusion chamber?
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Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
:Rolling::Rolling:Thanks Steve ... I still haven't looked up the torque settings yet. But you have reminded me ... :D
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/https://www.aulro.com/afvb/https://www.aulro.com/afvb/https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
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Originally Posted by jackz
....................................If the threads are damaged or covered with dirt, you can feel some resistance before the fastener actually pulls the parts together. This is called "run-down" torque. If you can "feel" that 5 Nm of run-down torque is needed to make the nut turn on the bolt, then add this 5 Nm to the recommended torque. Sometimes you can hear a clicking sound and feel the nut "stick" before it gets to full torque. Then, as you apply more torque, the nut does NOT move until you reach a higher value of torque. The cure is simple. Just back-off half a turn, and once it has broken free, tighten it again with a steady and smooth action....................
© Karl S. Kruszelnicki
Pinched this off the ABC website.
Talk about a long winded way to explain a simple principle. :wasntme:
What they are saying is that when you have a dirty or damaged nut/bolt that you are tightening, some of the force you are using to tighten it with is being used up to overcome the friction caused by the dirty/damaged nut/bolt. When you are tightening a nut/bolt to a specified torque you need to apply extra torque to compensate for this 'wasted torque' in overcoming friction. In the example given above they've determined that friction to be 5 Nm. I guess you'd determine this by feel when you're experienced but until then try this. If the nut/bolt isn't "pulled up" and you can feel resistance as you tighten it you'll be able to read the amount of torque required to overcome this resistance on your torque wrench. Add this to the required torque and bobs your uncle, the nut/bolt is now done up to the correct tension.
Hope that makes some sense.:):):)
Deano
Aahhhh............................"the innocence of youth".Quote:
Originally Posted by Panda
Deano
:Rolling:Glad to hear I'm not the only one suffering being cacky handed ... in reply to your question ... I have no idea. Had to re-read the chapter on bolts 3 times already ... bloody hell ... and no, I'm not reading it again at the moment! :Rolling::Rolling::Rolling:
You'll have to wait for some input from someone who actually knows what they're talking about ... so that kind of counts me out at this stage of the game ... oh, it's going to be a loooooooooooooong course! :Rolling::Rolling:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/https://www.aulro.com/afvb/https://www.aulro.com/afvb/https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
[quote=DeanoH;1073008][QUOTE=Panda;1072912]:Rolling::Rolling:
"Joseph Whitworth (1803 - 1887) was a British mechanical engineer and tool maker who was also responsible for establishing precision measurement and manufacturing standards....................
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Standards!! British (total lack of) Standard Whitworth, Pipe thread, Fine, Cycle Thread and whatever other awful conglomeration of crazy thread pitches they could think of. And the spanner sizes only relevant to a "standard" nut and bolt.
This is one thing the yanks got right, no mucking about UNF or UNC, take it or leave it and AF spanner sizes that actually relate to the "accross the flats" measurement of the nuts and bolts.
Fortunately the metric standard uses the same logic. Which is suprising really, you'd expect the French to come up with something totally, well, French.
Taking a page out of Pandas book and going off topic, (us leftys have to stick together), pulled a spanner from the bowels of the tool box which reads 25 A/F 1/4 one end and 31 A/F 5/16 the other. Of course it's made in England by Britool, any ideas ?
Deano