There was no way that mine would work from the power supplied by the Cigar lighter. Plenty of error light.
I ran a supply (6mm positive and earth) from the battery to a 12v power socket (firstly in the Disco and now in the Defender) and haven't had a problem since.![]()
Mahn England
DEFENDER 110 D300 SE '23 (the S M E G)
Ex DEFENDER 110 wagon '08 (the Kelvinator)
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/105691-one_iotas-110-inch-kelvinator.html
Ex 300Tdi Disco:
The 4wd Zone/Opposite Lock Bathurst
263 Stewart Street, Bathurst, NSW
http://www.the4wdzone.com.au/
Discounts for AULRO members, just shoot me a PM before you purchase.
I have a Waeco CF80. I've had a problem with the lead before and Waeco sent me another one.
I choppped the merit plug off the old lead and fitted one of those plugs that looks like a 240v plug but with two pins in a T arrangement. That sorted the voltage drop for a while but the lead is playing up again. I just measured a 0.3v drop over the lead.
I also measured a 0.46v drop between the battery and the socket. That is with 6sqmm cabling.
My plan is to eliminate the lead by making a new cable and connecting it directly into the internal wiring of the fridge.
Then run 10sqmm wiring to the fridge or at least find out why it is incurring a voltage drop that large. Maybe pull out the blade fuse holder and use a auto resetting circuit breaker but I didn't have time today to check if the fuse holder was the problem.
They do seem to be very sensitive to voltage drop.
We have a CF-80 that wouldn't run on the power box that I put in the back of our Disco. I ran 6mm +ve and earth up from the anderson plug at the back of the car (which is 8mm from the aux battery) with a merit in-line socket and haven't had a problem since.
I've also upgraded the wiring on our camper trailer to 6mm from the battery. I felt the error light was coming on while there seemed to still be sufficient power in the battery. Has been good so far.
-- Paul --
| '99 Discovery Td5 5spd man with a td5inside remap | doesn't know what it is in for ...
| '94 Discovery Tdi 5spd man | going ... GONE
My CF-60 is 3 years old and I had the current problem off the camper trailer until I finally realised what it was.
I now use the earler version of this WAECO mobile solutions which has 5m of cable on it so it is the capacity of the wire to hold current which is the issue.
I am going to wire in a second battery to the trailer and use 20amp wire for that as it will run the fridge.
More than happy with the fridge and the only issue with it is that it has just turned into a freezer as the therostat has packed it in![]()
Cheers, Dale
PIC - It comes with the Territory
'The D3' - 2006 TDV6 HSE
2008 Kimberley Kamper Sports RV
Previously Enjoyed:
2002 Adventure Offroad Campers 'Cape York'
2000 D2 Td5 - plus!
1997 Defender 110 Wagon - fully carpeted
I have a CF 60 and have had no trouble, but I do have a 6B&S (13mm2) cable I have ran from the Aux battery for the camper that feeds the Waeco.
You don;t wanna know the proper *cough* engel *cough* fix?![]()
I have a CF50 which burned the CB of the temperature controller twice. The service man in Bundy told me to replace the control with a nob like the old model or the Evakool. His workshop was full of faulty Waecos
Since the adaptation have been done is all Ok/
When she pack again it will be a Trailblazer![]()
Thanks for the responseAt least its not just me having the errors
![]()
Out of interest one of my fridges is rising 4 Yrs and the big one is 1 week oldThe loom I have now is only 4mm cable.
Looking at most responses other than buy an engelMaybe get a new lead, chop it off and hard wire the bastard in to twin core 6mm cable
That should take care of the voltage loss
I will have a look at the older one tonight and see what it has for the thermal overload protection.
CF80 no problems, did the wiring with one of the cigarette lighter type of plugs where you remove part of it and are left with a metal tip with a barb for a more positive connection. Wire is the same gauge as that provided by Waeco.
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