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I copied the details and tried that.the boss lady said not a hope in the city:((I told her there were no Centura clubs)She said any club.:DQuote:
Originally Posted by Brian Hjelm
thaks for the replys,this car has been in the family since new and only does a few hundred clicks a year and now Ms (Capt)Bligh wants 800 bucks a year. I guess a few more people will be doing the same thing.:eek:
Yeha they looked pretty good bucnh. saw them at the cleveland truck show a couple of months ago.Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnR
BTW tracker you must live around the corner from me As i am in Alex Hills.
mate send a pm with your ph# and we will have a beer:DQuote:
Originally Posted by Reads90
What engine and trans are in the Centura? most had a Hemi 245.
6cyl auto. goes like the clappers upto about120ks then flat out keeping the fuel up to it.A bit light in the bum also:DQuote:
Originally Posted by Brian Hjelm
Sounds like it needs a taller diff.:(Quote:
Originally Posted by tracker
I don't know what diff Centuras ran, but Valiants with a six and auto. ran, I think, a 2.6 or 2.8. Certainly under 3.Quote:
Originally Posted by V8Ian
A Valiant at least half a ton heavier could exceed 160. I tend to think the jigger is way out of tune. Heavy fuel usage would point this way. That Email-Carter carb is a piece of junk with vacuum operated needles and main jets. Does this need cleaning and a repair kit through it? Also check the throttle spindles for wear. This is critical on a carb with vacuum operated fuel control. Did that model Centura have the ELB ignition and emissions control system? If so, it could have a main system failure and be in "limp home" mode which is characterised by poor performance and heavy fuel consumption. Likewise the ELB system exhibits poor performance notably low top speed when its little components are getting tired. A points distributor from a 215 Hemi with a Jaycar ignition kit is the answer. Also shorten up the high tension leads to the minimum. Nos. 1 & 2 cylinders are prone to missing when the very long leads to those cylinders get sad. Is the coil still mounted on the engine? Putting it elsewhere leads to misses as the combined length of coil and cylinder leads becomes excessive.
G'day Tracker :)
I would certianly try the Qld Chrysler Club, as Brian Hjelm suggested, they are a specialist make club and would have a lot of expertise amongst the members, if not the Bayside boys would be my next choice :) I think that they have a display day (show and shine)& swap coming up in early October at Rocklea showgrounds (well it used to be) about 1st or 2nd weekend.
cheers
October 4th. Mt. Gravatt Showgrounds. Phone Tina 0412 082 954, Graham 0414 809 498.Quote:
Originally Posted by UncleHo
You have extractors on the car. I assume you have the standard cast iron inlet manifold? These are prone to warpage and leaks. Get a pressure can of WD40 and let the engine idle whilst you spray around the manifold to cylinder head joints. If the rpm and idle behaviour changes then you have inlet leakage. Also check that the body screws that hold the carburettor together are tight. Spray test this area also.