Being a tight ass atm I'll give it a go and see what happens. Hopefully it wont turn into a rant when I stuff it. :lol2:
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That "do hicky",a spinning jenny is a must.
One kink in the wire and it will snap when using the strainers.Get an assistant to standby it and stop any over-run as that will give you a kink too.
Surely a nearby member with a farm should have one you can borrow???
Buy some Gripples. They are awesome,you can tighten wires later as needed.Also save you needing to know how to to correct wire knots.
If you are tying off from strainer posts make sure you look up on the wire manufacturers websites how the knots are done,if incorrectly done they will snap on straining.
When you cut the wire off the spinning jenny ALWAYS bend the "pull" wire,ensures you dont grab the wrong end,especially as the roll gets low.
I would google GRIPPLES and Whites Wires(or similar wire manufacturer) for fencing ideas.
Enjoy,fencing was one of my favourite jobs till I stuffed my back doing so.Nothing like looking back over a well made fence.
Andrew
for what you've spent you could have had someone istall a basic 5-6 wire starpicket fence then put your rabit mesh over it. After this years bushfires, it cost me $739 to get my rear fence done the same as above at 72m long.
Tips from VIC
In the future if you are putting in a barbed wire fence, a good way to unravel the wire is a bar through the 3 point linkage bottom arms on the tractor to hold the wire (they are on a wooden or wire spool) and tie it too your strainer and go for a drive.
Wire spinner is very vital in rolling the wire out. Too hard otherwise. Also when you are done, put the the little flat sign/label back on the end and fold the end back over. Makes it easy to find the end next time. I just leave the plain wire in the spinner for next time.
Also another important thing is to make sure you have the wire as close as possible on the side the cattle are on as if its the other way it is a little weaker. Obviously on a dividing fence where no cattle is on one side you can't do that.
And don't get too stressed if your posts arnt quite lined up (by eye). Just remember wire bends!!
Stick in your corner posts, we used treated pine. Two posts, top rail and diagonal wire to provide a good anchor to strain your wire from. Run your bottom wire to give you something to line posts up with. Use some pine posts every couple of start pickets if you want a strong fence as per pic below.
Do not, Do not run your wire through the holes in the posts. You use the holes in the posts to hold a twist to hold the lengths of wire against the pickets.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...009/11/463.jpg
Have also done fences with no pine posts other than at the ends that you starin your wires from. Depends on if it is flat ground or not as you can have the start pickets work their way out of the ground if they are holding a wire down into a hollow. I'll see if I have more pics to assist with illustrations of the words.
Farm fences do not hold dogs in when you are not there if your dog is adventurous. If you are going to be away for the day and leaving the dogs alone, build a dog run with 6 foot or better high fences. Even then there are escape artists that will require you put in a enclosing panel overhead.
Great timing for this thread, as I was going to ask some questions on fences.
An important one first, what is a good type of wire strainer to buy? This will be for plain and barbed wire. I have strained hinge joint before, using a straight bar and tying off with a truckies hitch to an immoveable object.
Thanks in anticipation.
Slunnie,
I've got a wire spinner in Yass if you can figure out how to get it and return it.
Regards,
Tote