Thread: HOW HOT

Have you correct alignment of the fan to the shroud? Fan blades parallel to the core, and reasonably close to the core? Fan blades not too far, or not far enough into the shroud? One of the photos looks like the blades are at an angle to the core in the vertical plane. Engine mounts maybe need lowering slightly to correct this.

Have you checked the camshaft installation against crank position? Use a degree wheel on the crank and a dial gauge on a cam lobe. Likewise static ignition timing against actual piston position. Use a dial gauge with a long pushrod into the plug hole and a test light across the points.

Jason
It would be really good if anybody closeby to you with Series/Holden 6 experience that could have a good look at it for you.
Ive owned a couple and sorted the same overheating problems,problem is I may as well be on the other side of the world.
Anybody close by willing to have a look at it?????
Andrew

Originally Posted by banjo

ok everything that everyone has said is fine ..i put the cowl on..what i think is the problem is the timming..when we first regod the car it was all going good didnt do a thing to the engine we drove it for a week or two..then we thought we would give it a tune as it was blowing smoke (just) we new the origanal carby was knackered.so we put the holley on it (350)...then we brought all new ignition ,plugs,leads,cap,rotor,coil all good not the cheap stuff..then we set the timing to 6 degrees BTDC..BUT the thing is the timing mark on the pully was where the belt meets pully origanaly & the plugs where on backwards the number 1 lead was where the number 6 lead should have been thats when we found out that the cam & crank are not origanal they have JP then a pic of a kangaroo then VK stamped on them both & know one has been able to help me with what they are from or who.....So i put everything the right way around & set the timming right since then it hasnt run properly & has sat in the shed all this time just going for a quick drive when i have done the stuff use all suggested..but to know avail....So i think i am going to have to pay a machanic to sort it all out but i cant afford it yet so will have to sit in shed a bit longer till then...

THANX jason...

what pay... nooooooo...

patients... this is gunna be a long one.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

what pay... nooooooo...

patients... this is gunna be a long one.

You tell 'em Dr Dave.

PM sent.

this part of timing the engine is intended to get everything happening in near enough the right order that the engines bits are within range of being adjusted to correct position.

to start with open a new browser and using google find a copy of the old holden waltz leave that playing on loop for an hour or so.

take the rocker cover, plugs, leads and dizzy cover off of the engine and you'll also need

about 12 inches of tie wire folded in half with the bend tightened up and the legs parallel to each other.
a paint marking pen or similar
a seamstress's tape measure

for starters turn the engine over by hand until the number 6 exhaust valve is starting to close. This means that you are approching TDC on compression for number 1 cylinder or should be if the engine is assembled and valve timed correctly.

at this point insert the bit of tie wire bend first into the number 1 spark plug hole and turn the engine by hand just a little further and you should see the bit of wire start to poke itself back out of the hole. Mark the piece of wire where it comes out of the head, remove it and bend it at that point. Put the bit of wire back into number 1 plug hole and turn the engine untill you get a feel for where the wire just starts to touch the crown of the piston.

find or make a timing mark on the front of the timing cover and then mark the crank pully at that location.

Now turn the engine backwards untill the piston meets the wire again then mark pully one more time.

If the marks on the pully are closer than 45 degrees or more than about 90 degrees apart I reccomend changing the length of the wire and repeating the above procedure. you can do it with the marks closer or further apart but it becomes difficult to accurately do the measuring. Shortening the wire brings the marks together and lengthening it pushes them apart.

When you're happy with the marks (double check them) wrap the seamstress's tape around the pully and measure the distance between the 2 marks. Find half way and mark that on the pully.

This is you confirmed TDC mark on the pully I consider it accurate to within 1-2 degrees which is accurate enough to set the valve timing as missing a tooth on the timing gear or chain on average will put you out by at least 10-12 degrees on the crank.

With that found turn the engine forwards until valve set 6 is on or approaching the rock again (exhaust closing and inlet opening) and you should have the piston at TDC on compression on number one when the timing mark you calculated out (the one in the middle on the pully) lines up with the timing mark on the timing cover..

To confirm drop the piece of wire back into the number 1 plug hole, mark the wire next to the head and then crank the engine forwards a little more and the wire should start to move into the engine. If it does, remove the wire and turn the engine backwards to TDC insert the wire again and then continue reversing the engine. Once more the wire should dissapear into the engine.

IF you cant make the above work the engine is assembled incorrectly and the valve timing is out or the pully is slipping on the crank.

to confirm the valve timing turn the crank 360 degrees and now valve set number 1 should be on the rock. As you approach the rock watch the valve movement by eye the overlap of the valves motion should be about equal at TDC (both rockers should have about the same % of travel)

keeping mind on the firing order (this is a good time to set + check the tappet clearances) turn the crank over 2 more times while you watch the valve gear he valves should go on the rock in the same sequence as the firing order. Observe the rocker gears motion and as each set goes on the rock this is an ideal time to check its partnering cylinders valve seal by doing a leakdown test.

Once everythings been checked roll the crank over to TDC, firing on number one again while you watch the motion of the rotor arm in the dizzy, Mark a DOR arrow on the outside of the dizzy housing or the block where you can see it and when you stop at TDC put a further mark on the housing where the rotor arm is pointing. This is the lead that should be firing the number 1 cylinder.

Put the cap back on and if you have the gear do a compression test on all cylinders both dry then wet.

with that done place the leads back on in the correct sequence and in theory the engine should start It will be running rough as the the spark timing is only ball parked and the following which are part of timing the engine have yet to be set and adjusted

1. the initial static timing
2. idle speed
3. the mechanical advance
4. the vac advance

the Emission control gear will also need to be checked as will the carbys settings.

Hi anthony thanx heaps will keep you in mind & tnax for the offer my brother inlaw is going to take a look at it this week for me he used to own better ride next to th nights home ground there..& he still goes in there to work for him self on weekend ,has all the gear in there so hopefuly he can sort it....will keep everyone posted if he cant sort it then i will just ?????????????????????????????????????????????????? ?????????????????????????

Originally Posted by banjo

if he cant sort it then i will just ?????????????????????????????????????????????????? ?????????????????????????

keep asking questions and providing information untill it gets sorted?