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Thread: BEFORE FITTING A HOLDEN ENGINE CHECK ALIGMENT FIRST

  1. #11
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    Brian, I'm not equipped for the machining & I would have to buy the gear to measure run-out & alignment.

    Seing the drive train is out, it would be an investment to trailer it to an engine workshop & pay them to measure, adjust & then fix it permanently.

    The motor runs real well but I intend to dismantle the GB and at least put one of GaryCLR's kits in it.

  2. #12
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    A dial indicator and a magnetic base should not cost more than $60-$70 at today's exchange rates.
    URSUSMAJOR

  3. #13
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    God Bless eBay!

    Brian you are dead on! Thanks.

    I had a thought re this business:

    If I remove the gearbox input shaft & plug it into an assembled engine with the clutch and adaptor plate on & rotate the engine by hand will I be able to see if it's true or if it's got the wobbles?

    Perhaps via a dial indicator mounted on the adaptor & trained on the bearing or a gear?

  4. #14
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    There are two ways the adapter could be out of alignment. Either the mounting surfaces for the gearbox and engine are not parallel, or, more likely, lips that locate the bell housing and flywheel housing are not concentric. (A further possibility is that they have free play or rely on just the studs for alignment)

    Both can be checked with the adapter mounted on the engine by mounting the dial gauge on the flywheel and rotating it slowly measuring the height of the adapter surface and the radius of the lip for the bell housing. Obviously the reading should be the same all the way round for both.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  5. #15
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    Is This a Better Way?

    I've read & re-read the alignment procedure and there is one thing I find a bit disturbing:
    The location of the magnetic base of the dial indicator onto the back of the crankshaft means it's a LOOONG way to the dowels & mounting points of the bell housing leading certainly a significant risk of variability and possibly to an increased risk of error.

    Would it not be better to mount the flywheel then plonk the magnetic base near the rim & measure the centripetal (?) and axial gaps as it rotates? This also may be a way to make sure the flywheel is true.

    It would not matter where the base is as we are measuring the differences in the gap between several different points and it (the base) does not move. Correct?

    (Well derrr! as per John's post 2/12!!)
    Last edited by geodon; 18th January 2012 at 10:50 AM. Reason: more info

  6. #16
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    I believe this is what happens if you have a poorly aligned adaptor:




  7. #17
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    Have quoted the above images to the begining of the thread as a visual example.

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