Thread: 186 Engine problem NEED HELP

If the engine hasn't been running for a while, everything takes time to free up properly and seal properly. The rings are probably half stuck in the pistons and not working very well on the bores. Also the valve stem seals will be hard, so oil will be getting past them into the cylinders. I wouldn't worry about this at all for the moment. The rings will free up once the engine has to do some work.

If the engine is running smoothly and drives well, it will be fine. Worst case scenario is it may need a new set of rings at some stage later on, and maybe a valve grind. Nothing too hard on these engines at all.

As for the tune up, start with the ignition and get that right. If the points look good, check the gap, or better still, set the gap using a dwell meter. After that, set the timing. Check to make sure you have a nice fat blue spark - not a wimpy orange one - you may have a coil that is half stuffed. If that is all ok, then the flat spot you mention when you floor it will probably still be a carby issue - check float level, mixture etc.

Once you have done all that, it should run like a clock. I have still to do most of this on mine - only got it running the other day for the first time in years, and it runs smoothly, but does have a flat spot. I haven't even rebuilt the carby yet let alone checked the timing, etc. The Holden red 6's are great engines - do the work, and you will be rewarded.

Cheers - Gav

Ok, the new water pump and thermostat (or should I say the outter ring of the thermostat) went in, as well as new radiator hoses (custom made by me!) A S2ish (i think) radiator, quiet 2nd hand but doesn't even leak after I ran the engine for 30mins with no cooling fan (ooops) also got put in.

found out that there is still a water leak somewhere around the engine so i'm putting in a new thermostat housing this weekend. Crossing fingers that this does the trick! total bill for the cooling system is somewhere around $400!!! and thats with my 5 finger discount on the radiator! haha.

Gav, you were right! The blue smoke is slowly disappearing... only does it when you rev now. I'm hoping that it gets better as i run the engine more. I am thinking I will register it with that motor and contemplate a rebuild/V8/Diesel/something else that I havnt considered yet/ignore.

I think the mrs is starting to buck a little at the cost of my little 'project toy'. O well, it's getting closer to completion!

Does anyone know how much/how easy it is to get a recon gear box for a series 3 6cyl? my box leaks oil like crazy.

valve stem seals will be cactus if its only lightly smoking.


sealing a series box is just a case of plenty of silicone and about $50 for seals (including the Tcase seals)

Do you think it will be ok if I just put new seals in? Or would it need more work, ie it needs a proper rebuild

Originally Posted by debruiser

I think the mrs is starting to buck a little at the cost of my little 'project toy'. O well, it's getting closer to completion!

Easy - tell her you are getting your parts cheap through the forum. I'm bugeting about $4K to get mine to where I want it - and that is more of a preservation rather than restoration, but nearly half of that will be the engineers report and RWC - ouch... My policy is not to tell SWMBO what I spend on any of the cars....

Originally Posted by debruiser

Do you think it will be ok if I just put new seals in? Or would it need more work, ie it needs a proper rebuild

New valve stem seals will generally require the head to come off (you can do them with the head on, but I find it easier with it off), but it is not a huge job, then you just need a valve spring compressor - you can do all this yourself if you are confident. The compression test looked ok, so I wouldn't be too worried about the valves or rings at the moment. As you said, get it on the road then have a think about what you finally want to get out of it.

If it was mine, I wouldn't even worry about doing them yet - it is not detrimental to the engine in any way (unless you run it out of oil...)

Cheers - Gav

As far as tuning, you can fit the later electronic distributor from the black or blue series motors and have no points to worry about. The valve stem seals can be done with out removing the head. If the valves are sealing well enough you can apply air pressure to hold the valves in place. From what I have learned about the 186 and the 202. The 202 was introduced for the automatic and was a higher toruqe through a longer stroke. The 186 was a more responsive free revving motor due to the shorter stroke. Can`t get much more of a basic motor than these. Had one in a Stout I owned and it went well.
Cheers Hall

Thanks guys. I'm planning on getting that engine on the road. I was actually referring to the gear box, will it need more than just new seals?

you wont know till you drive it or strip it.