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Thread: 186 Engine problem NEED HELP

  1. #61
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    well that couldn't be much worse than what I have.... you obviously havn't seen the video Bearman! let me see if I can do a link for you....

    [ame]http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b640/debruiser/HillClimb_zps1ffab270.mp4[/ame]

  2. #62
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    A Bosch electronic dizzy that was standard on the later model Holden straight six engines and a Stromberg carby in good nic that is the correct one (jets, venturi etc.) for the 186, and you will have a good reliable donk that performs well.

    Cheers, Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  3. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by mick88 View Post
    A Bosch electronic dizzy that was standard on the later model Holden straight six engines and a Stromberg carby in good nic that is the correct one (jets, venturi etc.) for the 186, and you will have a good reliable donk that performs well.

    Cheers, Mick.
    I actually have a stromberg... but it's just not very good (as per previous statements.) My problem is that I don't really know enough about these things! I don't really know people who do know nitty gritty stuff about it all, that can sit down with me and go through my gear and tell me about it and make me fix it! I sure as hell can't afford to pay someone; ie. a mechanic in Mackay; to fix it! and plus then I wont learn anything, which is half the point of having the Series in the first place!

    Maybe I should have spent more and got the Bosch dizzy, but money is a bit tight atm so I went for the aftermarket jobby, maybe it wasn't cheaper after-all.... I will keep fiddling with it until 1 of 3 things happens:

    1. It works!
    2. I give up and buy a bosch unit
    3. I burn the car

    no wait there is a 4th - buy a decent feeler gauge and go back to using crappy old points....

  4. #64
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    Progress! sort of....

    Went out for another play just before. Disconnected the Vac advance hose (sealed the end of the hose with vice grips) then started it and got the idle speed to about 600-700ish.... not sure how accurate the tacho is. was running ok, would rev up to 3000rpm no problems! even picked up from idle good with hardly any flat spot (standing still, not driving). Wow i'm pretty excited by now! although there is a miss happening... not sure why, any ideas on that would be good.

    So in my new found enthusiasm I decided to see what happens if I un-seal the vac advance! NO difference *insert perplexed look here* tried putting my finger on the hose to feel the vacuum, nothing, so i stuck it on my cheek, still nothing! So I thought, O well too bad maybe it's not much vacuum and can't be felt. O and yes the engine was running!

    Stuck the vac hose back on the dizzy, re-start engine. That miss has become more pronounced. BUT what really got me was that now the engine wont rev!!! idles ok but no revs! grrrrrrr.....

    My theory: Something incorrect about the vac advance unit.

    Question: What can I do about it? I'm going to assume that permanently disconnecting will be bad for fuel economy and possibly bits inside the engine.

  5. #65
    Bearman's Avatar
    Bearman is offline TopicToaster Gold Subscriber
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    You need to get the timing set correctly before you look any further Nick.
    Cheers......Brian
    1985 110 V8 County
    1998 110 Perentie GS Cargo 6X6 ARN 202516 (Brutus)

  6. #66
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    just re-read what I posted.

    I ment that I shifted the timing until the idle speed was 6-700. Wouldn't that mean that my timing is pretty close? I havn't touched the carbi at all.

  7. #67
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    It's been awhile since I played with a 186.
    I don't think your going about it correctly.

    Have a look here-186 timing issue | OldHolden.com

    That'll get your timing right.
    Then adjust the idle screw and mixture to get your idle speed.
    '95 Defender 130 Single Cab
    HS2.8 TGV Powered
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    98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
    The other 2% made it home.

    Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.

  8. #68
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    I think the vac advance needs to be disconnected when setting timing.

    My memory is failing me.........
    '95 Defender 130 Single Cab
    HS2.8 TGV Powered
    ------------
    98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
    The other 2% made it home.

    Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.

  9. #69
    D mac Guest

    The stromberg

    Just a thought.
    If the engine idles but it won't rev.It could be possible that you need to look at the main jet and associated emulsion tube.
    Could be blocked.
    Don't be afraid of this carby. They are as simple as you can get.
    Put another kit through it.
    With regards to the leaks. Invert the carb body and use medium emery paper on a piece of flat glass and use a figure of 8 motion to try and correct any warpage. repeat this on the top horn (remove the vacuum piston first)
    You need to set the float level with the engine running and the vacum hole blocked.
    Any old holden manual will show you how.
    Best of Luck

    Don

  10. #70
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    Don't forget there's a mechanical advance as well as a vacuum advance on the distributor. Is the mechanical advance operating as it should? The (additional) vacuum advance is required mainly for combustion of lean mixtures produced by a partial and /or trailing throttle...e.g. cruising or on over run down hill etc

    From your description it appears that the non revving issue is a combination of timing (incl advance) and carburettor. The lack of revs could well be that the float valve is stuck and the float level is incorrectly set. You need to physically bend the float arm to get the correct level...at the same time keeping the float as flat as possible. There used to be a special tool for this ... a 75mm strip of aluminium 2mm thick and 7mm or thereabouts wide with a 3mm wide transverse slit extending about halfway across the strip from one side and located about 5mm from one end..if that makes sense? You position the slit the over the float arm and bend the float arm against tool rather than putting prressure on the float valve which is a bit fragile.

    As advised elsewhere, bend the float while the engine is idling and the vacuum passage is blocked off to get an even idle at 500 rpm and measure the depth of fuel in the float bowl from the top of the bowl without the gasket in place.

    One of those thin 6" engineers rulers with a piece of carboard attached as a sliding "saddle" is ideal... slide the ruler down until it just touches the surface of the fuel and slide the cardboard along the ruler to the top of the bowl read off the value... the fuel surface should be 15.8mm or 0.62" below the face of the bowl

    (I once had a torana 173 which was for all intents and purposes the same as the 186 engine. One time driving it to Adelaide from Canberra and it would not do more than 45 mph across the Hay Plains Any faster and it would cough and almost stop but cruise all day at 45mph... it was only 6m old! Sure enough it was a dud float valve setting which I managed to fix with a small metal ruler in the basement carpark of the pub we were staying at... It cruised at twice that speed going home but that was >40 yrs ago Lesson learned re. float levels.)

    If you can get to a public library... Gregory's Manual#84 on the LC-LJ torana has all the info for all the Holden 6 cyl engines from 138-202.

    Couple of other things: get yourself a decent timing light from supercheap and a vacuum gauge for setting the idling screw.... they're indispensible!
    MY99 RR P38 HSE 4.6 (Thor) gone (to Tasmania)
    2020 Subaru Impreza S ('SWMBO's Express' )
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