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I quite like the low gearing in the diffs cause It gives me the ability to crawl really slow over some quite rough terrain. I'll certainly do some work with the radiator (maybe get a bigger one) and fit the thermo fan that runs full time so she doesn't get hot at all.
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Originally Posted by Series3 GT
Put a thermo switch on the thermo fan and fit an override switch so you can turn it on if you have a need.
Not much point running the fan when it's not necessary!
Also fit the fan over the hot spot of the radiator.
Cheers. Mick.
I will, probably get a thermo switch from the wreckers and fit it to my fan that I've already got. How difficult is it to get one of those gauges that check the allignment of the gearbox?
A dial indicator and magnetic base is what your after for the alignment check. You could borrow mine, but you are a bit far away.:). Maybe a member that is closer has one to loan, or you can get cheap versions of each on flea bay easily.
The Dellow kits that used to be common in NSW in the 80s used a Holden clutch and and an alloy adaptor plate. The Roy Sim kit that I got later used a Land Rover clutch and a steel adaptor.
Jeff
:rocket:
Thanks everyone for your input, I'm not going to do this at the moment cause I'm too busy on my other Landy, but when I'm less caught up with that, I'll go for it. I'll let the 2.25 live out for a bit longer then I'll get around to do it but I'll do it eventually. Now I know what to do and how to do it, it should be a breeze.
Things to note:
1. Check the algnment of the face of the adaptor. They are notorious for not being square and so stuffing input bearings/shafts.
2. Radiator. The std radiator can be used or even enlarged to an extra row, at the sane time have the outlets moved to suit the holden better. Can't remember the hoses we used to use but the top is just a 90deg, both are off the shelf. It needs to be moved forwards, to do this the front crossmember needs to be cut and changed. When looking down on it from the front cut across half way back, on the back face cut at the same level as the existing lower level of the radiator. Then flip this cut out and refit into the hole it left, and weld back in. It's just as strong (9 conversions I did never went anywhere) and looks very neat for engineering.
3. The S3 box is ok, the earlier non synchro S2 box is better. Buiding a hybrid of the two better yet. Use the early case, and use some early bits, some late bits. The transfer is fine. Just use decent bearings and oil, if possible find an extended sump to run more oil (cooler running).
4. Extend the sunp of the engine as well. Same thing, cooler running of oil, there's room (forward by memory). Get a spare sump, cut the base off and add to other.
5. 3.54 Range rover diffs make the world of difference with the holden. drop the revs at speed (or cruise at 140).
Well I just found a 202 and the bloke said I could have it for free but it needs a bit of work so I think I might grab it and give it a light rebuild (or full rebuild) and make sure its in good condition and give the 2.25 a bit longer and wait till it lets go.
just bought a dial gauge from auto one on sunday $49.95 down from $63 the magnetic base was around $74 so will make a bracket that bolts on to the crank when i do mine as long as there is no flex shouldn't be a problem i hope.
I'll definetly try and get one of those alignment gauges cause I don't want to replace the gearbox every few months. I'm hoping to pick up the motor next week and I'll put some pics up when I get it.