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Thread: New Land Rover IIA 109 station wagon

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Adelaide
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    Thanks for the advice all. much appreciated. Yes the door tops seem to be far gone and it would be a mighty job tack welding (and burning holes) to get it back to satisfactory condition. I will however be welding new bottom section into the doors.

    is it an easy task to un wrap the aluminium for this job? should i peel it all off or just the bottom half carefully? any tips on this area would be greatly appreciated.

    some more pics. I have enjoyed looking around the forum at other peoples projects so I hope this is also of interest to others.

    pics

    - front seat box showing no rails - I'm on the hunt for these
    - front dash - have covers for wipers etc. eventually get to tidying this up. I am not certain that the switch panel should be the car colour? were they meant to be black for this model/year?
    - back seat - reupholster or replace depending on price. as you can see, previous owner has added some covering to stop rubbing when down.
    - carby - very clean after an overhaul. works fantastically now.
    - fuel tank emptied and flushed. Im sure the octane levels were at least half my age...
    - front brakes - have stripped plate and reblasting. new cylinders, pads, springs, hoses. I have read some shocking experiences with these. I have built brakes before but hopefully i strike luck and have only a few problems along the way!!

    Cheers,

    Nick
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  2. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Adelaide
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    front brakes...
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  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
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    Door bottoms being repaired here Isuzu C240 powered Series 3

    De skinning is straightforward, I used a screwdriver and tried to bend the edge back as little as possible to get it off the frame.
    Handy to measure the distance from the top of the door to the bottom edge that you're about to cut out, I wrote this on the frame so I wouldn't forget.

    I re-folded the skin using a panel beating hammer & a sandbag.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Adelaide
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    Fantastic Gromit, thanks very much. I nearly picked up a set of adjustable seat rails for 15 pounds but missed out... bugger. the hunt continues. I have ordered the same seats as you have in the page previous on the link you sent. Off to work on the car. will post more pics this evening.

    Cheers, Nick

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Molesworth,Tasmania
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    Mate - re the door top - I found Allfourx4.com cheaper than Paddocks


    cheers,
    1957 88 Petrol (Chumlee)
    1960 88 Petrol (Darwin)
    1975 88 Diesel (Mutley)

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Adelaide
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    Thanks Colin and Dark61. Here are some pics of door skin removal etc. Looking a little worse for wear. I am on the hunt for 2 shapes of U channel to weld in. I could buy a new door but it is in workable condition apart from the window channel rust.

    Door skins were ok to take off. Are there any special tools that you recommend other than a wide flat crowbar!? took my time so I'm comfortable i can put them back on carefully and bend/soft mallet back into place.

    The front doors will need bottom section repairs (thanks Colin for the link). The advice to replace the front door top sections was also great - they are both far too gone and there is better use of time than trying to repair...!
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  7. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Adelaide
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    skins removed. will sandblast and re-assess
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  8. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Windsor NSW
    Posts
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    Smile another Holden gem

    Hi ,
    my rebuilt S1 109 has a Holden 179 red motor (fully rebuilt) and is a dream to drive now with 3.5 diff ratios and S11A box.Also fitted a rebuilt larger core radiator and now runs at around 70degrees so make sure your cooling system is good. Have not needed an electric fan.Also fitted parabolics so maybe an option IF your springs are past it. Your car will be a top machine when finished.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Adelaide
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    Hi Alan. Thanks very much for your comments. From preliminary investigations the gearbox was professionally rebuilt by a reputable shop and the oils were still in excellent condition. It has (like many others) sat in a shed for 10+ years. Thankfully this was not due to failure - rather time/lifestyle pressures.

    The gearbox seals certainly could do with replacement. only a very minor weep. Any thoughts on this? i assume if i was to venture down this path of repair i would be best to just take the gearbox out and do a full and proper job...?

    The engine has a new looking radiator and i know that it did run well/sufficient cooling. I have replaced hoses, housings, gaskets flushed radiator and muck out. Something to expect after such a long time sitting idle. Im sure the picture i have added would speak otherwise but after significant cleaning/flushing i can confidently say it is solid. I did opt for a cooler thermostat...

    I have seen great installations of electric fans and it certainly would provide some security of temperature management.

    Springs - they look ok so far. Im interested in the parabolic, however in the interests of maintaining a strict budget I have opted to take the springs off and have them reconditioned/new bushings etc for the time being. The previous owner kindly included a new pair of front shockers that have not been fitted.

    Is there any way i could easily check if i have 4.7 or 3.5 diff ratios?

    Thanks again for your comments. Cheers, Nick
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  10. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Adelaide
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    front/side pics
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