Thanks Bacicat - that sounds about right.
John - as Bacicat described - the two welded on brackets on chassis in front/ to the left of the handbrake lever
Nick
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Thanks Bacicat - that sounds about right.
John - as Bacicat described - the two welded on brackets on chassis in front/ to the left of the handbrake lever
Nick
more progress
- seat box with adjustable drivers seat picked off a wrecker. In excellent condition. will strip, repaint. seat rails will be blasted and resprayed black. New deluxe seats have also arrived so its an exciting prospect of having it all repaired and that job finished.
- wheel from wrecker placed on front right (to see how it looks!). 4 matching wheels are on way with newish tyres. This wheel will be the spare.
- stripped from bumper bar. front LR badge replaced.
- rebuilding clutch and brake with replacement parts.
We are still working out how to repair (if possible) the second row doors. The window channel steel is badly rusted along with lower section door rust. Could fabricate and re weld in new section but it would also require remaking the drain channels etc. What are your thoughts? worth it or get new frames?
Cheers,
Nick
Tempted to grab these from another vehicle and rebuild. I have ditched the Shute Upton freewheel hubs as the nylon washers were buggered and no luck finding replacement parts.
I am aware of rebuild kits for avm.. Are the particular ones recognisable to anyone? Worth the effort of rebuild? No idea of the insides, however i was able to turn the lock/unlock.
Cheers,
nick
Good second row doors are scarce, I'm about to collect some rusty rear doors as potential spares for my IIa Dormobile.Quote:
Originally Posted by nickcundy
I did find a pair of good ones some years back, the car was full of rat poo and it was a bit of a mess but all 4 doors were good. The guy wouldn't sell just the doors but I'll have to see if I still have his number.
Series III doors are available Series 3 Second Row Door Unglazed - RH
Not sure of all the differences. Hinges are different & anti-burst doorlocks on SIII.
Maybe someone makes SII & IIa rear passenger doors. Just looked SP Land Rover panels and it's in the drop down menu but nothing comes up, might be worth contacting them SP landrovers LTD - Body panel Specialists
Found someone.....http://www.landrover-bitz.co.uk/prod...hp?cat=Series2 no prices though.
Colin
Series 3 doors will fit (dimensions are identical from Series 2 right up to current Defender), but the part number is different, so there are some differences. I do not think these will be critical, but will reflect differences such as the securing of the trim.Quote:
Originally Posted by gromit
John
Gday Nick looks like a nice car. If you are still wondering about the diff ratio you could put the trans in neutral while its jacked up and turn a road wheel, counting the tailshaft revolutions as you go.
Thanks for all the photos and progress reports!
Sent from my B1-730 using AULRO mobile app
Update:
Seat box from wreckers stripped taken back to bare aluminium. Etch Primed.
Still waiting for wheels to arrive from QLD.
Test fitting of new seats. As pictures illustrate, still need to remove adhesive glue from interior. The seat back bar is new. It cost an arm&leg!
Paint...
I have gone around to quite a few auto paint shops about getting paint. Marine Blue LRC006 is the code (i think!). The shop found the code through the code 10350. An ancient paint code book had them listed as the same (006/10350) - complete with exact measurements of blending!
So i got two samples and dotted on sections of car. doesn't match well. The Samples are far to blue/dark thinking of just taking a door skin or panel to match. The colour codes were so far off it would only be a workable paint solution to paint everything.
At this stage we are not looking at a full respray, just a tidy up - enough to enjoy the car on a few trips before reassessing. The shop can make up few rattle cans of the paint for this in acrylic. As far as i have researched this is the paint type they would have used? I would like to avoid enamel if possible. they also offered 2pac as a alternative to acrylic, however is slightly more $$. Thoughts?
Thanks for the tips everyone. Its a great help. We cant wait to finish off the box and seats. Will bead blast and spray the seat rails black this week.
Nick,
There have been a few discussions about paint codes on the forum.
It seems that pigments have changed over the years and therefore it's often difficult to match using the original code.
Taking in a sample is the best bet, something that hasn't been in direct sunlight or got dirty over the years.
A paint shop I tried refused to mix paint to a code, they used to have so many people returning with paint that was 'incorrect' so they made the decision that unless it was a complete respray they would only match a sample.
Interested to hear why you are avoiding enamel.
I've used acrylic and it doesn't give the high gloss of enamel without some hard work. Mind you, I don't think a Land Rover in high gloss looks right.
Colin
A good one is often the cover for the hole for the LH handbrake, especially if it is painted on the inside.Quote:
Originally Posted by gromit
John
Thanks Colin & John. John I did in fact take that to the painter! Colin - I was under the impression that acrylic was the original paint used? I have been told this by an old Land Rover mechanic from Malta and a Brit. Both of course could be wrong! Also, were the Aus cars painted here before assembly? I am confused that I wasn't able to come up with a paint code (especially the marine blue 006). Even other non sun affected areas seemed way off. It's quite an original vehicle and hasn't been ripped to pieces etc that would indicate a re spray at some point in its history.