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Thread: Holden 186 Alternator Replacement

  1. #11
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    If the tacho works fine leave it that way. My MY85 RRc uses the tacho output.

  2. #12
    Lionelgee is offline YarnMaster Silver Subscriber
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    Hello JDobson,

    I would follow this link's advice and stick with a Bosch alternator. Any good auto electrician should have one in stock or get one quickly. The URL to the site below includes wiring diagrams and how to upgrade from low amp Boschs to High amp Boschs along with the do's and don'ts, plus troubleshooting tips.

    It will also answer your question about the extra spade connector on the new alternator!

    The Holdenpaedia people do a damn good job about spreading the knowledge for all things Holden

    Accessed 30th April 2016 from, Alternator - Holdenpaedia

    Kind Regards
    Lionel

  3. #13
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    Thanks for the continued info. I have switched the alternator and fitted a new Bosch 85 Amp unit. The large cable goes straight to the starter motor and I haven't connected any other cables to the ignition. It seems to be charging properly but when I put my headlights on the engine stalls and smoke is generated.. It restarts okay and no smoke.. But weird to have this intermittent fault. When I switch the headlights on the Ampmeter goes into negative. I don't know how it's even working as there's no feed from the alternator. Does this point to a short in the circuit somewhere?

    The feed to the starter comes from a small unit mounted to the bulkhead..

  4. #14
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    It definitely sounds like you have a short in the headlamp circuit somewhere.

    As for the alternator, the alternator will often self excite, but it is wise to connect the D+ to the charge warning lamp, which means that it will commence charging earlier and give you a warning if you throw a fan belt.

    The original wire for the warning lamp should be yellow coming out of the firewall. (There is also a yellow wire coming from the regulator to the original dynamo, but you should connect to the one from the lamp.)

  5. #15
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    Well it seems to be charging effectively, the headlights are certainly much brighter than ever before and I can now run the windscreen wipers, iPhone charger and headlights with no problems.

    I still need to tidy up the wiring (joys of working in a dark basement car park). With the original wiring from the alternator the large output cable went in behind the dash board and was connected to the ampmeter before being routed to the battery. I have bypassed the ampmeter and it now goes straight to the starter motor.

    Weirdly, I would expect the ampmeter to no longer work...but it does... I guess I need to have a proper look at where the wires go.. when I put the headlights on the ampmeter drops into negative readings. I actually don't think the headlights are shorting out somewhere - I gave it a good check over and all that wiring seems to be good. So perhaps the ampmeter is not recording accurately now that it doesn't have a direct connection to the alternator.

    Thanks for everyone's advice, always useful and much appreciated.

  6. #16
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    Your ampmeter is working perfectly. You have changed the side of the meter which you are charging the battery from. Normally you have the battery on one side of the meter, with loads and dynamo on the other side. You have placed the alternator on the battery side of the meter, so all loads now show as a discharge.

    Aaron

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