Rebus is ALIVE!!!

Hello Gary,

Thank you very much for the photographs. It sure looks more complex then the cable system I inherited from Rebus' previous owner.

Correct me if I am wrong...
1) the linkage from the horizontal rod that runs parallel to the fire wall rotates up and down as the accelerator pedal is moved forward and back.

The second mechanical linkage rod that runs parallel to the passenger side mudguard is rotated via a clamp that comes off the horizontal rod (1). The clamp is located before the end of the inlet manifold.

The 90 degree bend closest to the carburettor moves the bracket that is position on the accelerator shaft of the carburettor causing it to move in an arc.

Is this correct or am I making things up?

Thanks again for the photographs [bigsmile1]

Kind Regards
Lionel

Hello All,

After I identified a list of things that needs to be done on Rebus in an earlier post I finished with the series of three dots ... meaning more things to come; or a continuation. Well I will not be doing that again! They attracted something else. When I went under the car to remove the bolts off the conversion adaptor I took the opportunity to check the universal joints in the front and rear drive shafts. Very Icky.

No photographs to show because I did not get as far advanced as I thought I would. I had figured that there may be sufficient space between the unfastened gearbox and the conversion adaptor to get access to the clutch - without taking out the seat box. The "Green Bible" - Land Rover Series III Repair Operation Manual say that you can access the clutch - without needing to remove the seat-box (p. 33 - 1). However, they do not add the width of the Holden engine to Land Rover gearbox in their instructions.

Gee aren't the four bolts at the back of the ute body user friendly to access so they can be undone! NOT!!!

I do know where four captive nuts would have been damn handy though. Seat box is now off and out of the Rebus.

The previous owner mentioned that the gear stick would jump out of gear when decelerating when cruising on a flat or going down a slope. Since the seat box is out and all the connections off the gearbox I may take the opportunity to lift the gearbox out. Whilst out I may either swap it for another box or I could become familiar with the bowels of the Series III gearbox.

With the gearbox totally out of the way I will have lots more access to the clutch and flywheel. I will then be able to set up a measuring gauge and check the alignment as per the suggestion of the sticky about alignment and Holden engines. One of my spares vehicles has a complete gearbox and some funny looking appendage - a Fairey overdrive. However, this vehicle had a Holden engine conversion that I have never driven - so it is an unknown quality.

Dark arrived before I could start removing the clutch. Its removal and photographs will have to wait until next weekend.

Kind Regards
Lionel

Hello All, Especially Pedro the Swift,

Here are three photographs of the accelerator cable arrangement. The first photograph shows the transition from Land Rover mechanical linkage rods to the cable via a brazed nut and a length of angle iron.

The second photograph shows the arc the accelerator cable travels through towards the radiator before bending back under the air cleaner to another piece of angle iron fixed by an manifold bolt. The outer sheath is held between two brazed nuts. The cable itself then extends to the Dellorto accelerator wheel.

The third photograph shows the pin on the end of the cable that is held by a bolt with a hole drilled through it. The bolt itself is fixed to the Dellorto accelerator wheel.

See Pedro - some photographs [bigwhistle]

I have to make a couple of more brackets in the area shown in the first photograph that I can use to fix two throttle return springs to. At the moment the only return spring is on the carburettor. The single spring is not enough because I have to flick the accelerator pedal back up with the toe of my boot once I take my foot off the pedal. The previous owner had a spring tie wired to the Land Rover mechanical linkage on one end of the spring. The other end of the spring was secured by a cable tie. Not sure if the vehicle inspector will be happy about that arrangement!

Kind Regards
Lionel

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Lionelgee

Hello Gary,

Thank you very much for the photographs. It sure looks more complex then the cable system I inherited from Rebus' previous owner.

Had another look at it today. When I first picked "Forrest" up from his previous owner, some of these bits were hanging loose and I didn't notice till I got it home and had another look in better light.

Correct me if I am wrong...
1) the linkage from the horizontal rod that runs parallel to the fire wall rotates up and down as the accelerator pedal is moved forward and back. - Yes, that is correct.

The second mechanical linkage rod that runs parallel to the passenger side mudguard is rotated via a clamp that comes off the horizontal rod (1). The clamp is located before the end of the inlet manifold. - Yes, that's correct.

The 90 degree bend closest to the carburettor moves the bracket that is position on the accelerator shaft of the carburettor causing it to move in an arc. - Yes, and the rod has been welded to the bracket on the carbi. I feel it's a bit agricultural and needs a bit of work to make it function better. It doesn't help that the bracket on the bulkhead is missing a bolt. The intentions were good but it's just not working.

Is this correct or am I making things up?

Thanks again for the photographs [bigsmile1] You're welcome.

Kind Regards
Lionel

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o

Hello Gary,

Thank you for the confirmation of what rod linkage goes where and does what - it is much appreciated.

I will document my attempts at improving Rebus' accelerator cable system and I will post up some photographs in the future. The Dellorto accelerator wheel is readily available from performance vehicle parts suppliers - even on eBay. The other main parts are two pieces of angle iron. A couple of bolts with holes drilled in them. A length of motor cycle clutch/brake cable and some hand grip based cable adjusters.

I am going to try and track down what cable system the HJ Holdens had to see if it can produce a slightly more professional appearance.

All this accelerator stuff will have to wait though, until after I sort out the clutch system and brakes. Oh and yes the universal joints in the drive shafts too.

Kind Regards
Lionel

Hello All,

I picked up Rebus' freshly machined flywheel on Monday. The only trouble is that I have Rebus on ramps outside in the yard. Because the past fortnight has had lots of rainy days - particularly on Saturdays, I now have a swimming pool under the vehicle.

The gear box that Rebus had in it had some issues with jumping out of gear so there could be some Holden engine to Land Rover converter plate alignment issues. I have some spare gearboxes. I will check the alignment using the recommended engineering gauge to and the put in another gearbox of unknown quality and having to cross my fingers that it was okay.

I was reversing my daily driver into the shed today and saw in my rear-view mirrors the 2.6 litre six cylinder engine that I have mounted in a hardwood engine frame. The engine lives at the back of the shed just behind my car. I put swivel wheels on the engine frame so it can be moved around easily.

I will have a go at making an extra frame to support a gearbox to prevent the whole lot tipping over on me. The rig will allow me to warm up and test each gearbox while the engine is running. I can then sort the good gearboxes from the not so good ones. All done without my having to manoeuvre each box inside the cabin and my fitting them to Rebus.

Once I have found a good gearbox and replaced the gaskets and the oil; what other maintenance tasks should be done before fitting the gearbox permanently to Rebus?

Kind Regards
Lionel

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Lionelgee

I will have a go at making an extra frame to support a gearbox to prevent the whole lot tipping over on me. The rig will allow me to warm up and test each gearbox while the engine is running. I can then sort the good gearboxes from the not so good ones.

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Lionel,
Unless you can put some 'load' on the gearbox I'm not sure your testing will confirm that the box is OK.
It may help you detect a major problem or gear selection issue (how will you operate the clutch ?) but jumping out of gear might not be replicated without load being applied. Operating the handbrake (if you can rig something up) may help.


Colin

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gromit

Lionel,
Unless you can put some 'load' on the gearbox I'm not sure your testing will confirm that the box is OK.
It may help you detect a major problem or gear selection issue (how will you operate the clutch ?) but jumping out of gear might not be replicated without load being applied. Operating the handbrake (if you can rig something up) may help.


Colin

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Hello Colin,

Thanks for your contribution about adding load. I was going to add a bracket on the frame to fit the clutch pedal box and master cylinder too. Another option I have is to fit the engine and gearboxes to a spare rolling chassis. It would still be easier than manoeuvring a gearbox inside a cabin; only to then find out that it needs work too. Who knows I could go all safety minded and get the brakes working on the chassis too! Clip on a seat and off into the paddock I go!

Kind Regards
Lionel

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Lionelgee

Hello Colin,

Thanks for your contribution about adding load. I was going to add a bracket on the frame to fit the clutch pedal box and master cylinder too. Another option I have is to fit the engine and gearboxes to a spare rolling chassis. It would still be easier than manoeuvring a gearbox inside a cabin; only to then find out that it needs work too. Who knows I could go all safety minded and get the brakes working on the chassis too! Clip on a seat and off into the paddock I go!

Kind Regards
Lionel

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Lionel,

Fitting to a rolling chassis sounds like a better idea. Slightly more work but a chance to give a real test of the box.


Colin

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gromit

Lionel,

Fitting to a rolling chassis sounds like a better idea. Slightly more work but a chance to give a real test of the box.


Colin

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Hello Colin,

It would have been good have done an apprenticeship in mechanics. It would have involved the study what makes a good gearbox and what indicates a gearbox is shagged. I turn 55 years of age next week - so I figure I have missed the opportunity of an apprenticeship!

The only hints I can think of is when the oil is drained out of a gearbox and it has lots of little bits of metal come out with the oil - that this event it is not a good thing. Similarly, if you take the inspection covers off and bits are sitting in the bottom of the box it - this too is not a good sign either.

Nor, do I have the knowledge to be able to pick out a worn gear unless bits of teeth are missing off it; or the metal has turned a shade of blue - indicating severe overheating. I would need to see a brand new gear sprocket and compare it with the one fitted to one of my gearboxes to tell if there has been too much wear.

Did all the photographs of your disassembling and rebuilding a gearbox get reloaded? At the moment I will just remove covers; check inside and hook them up to be tested - who knows a really good gearbox might show itself to me.

Once Rebus is under its own locomotion again I will see if I can overhaul the gearbox that I took out because it had issues.

Kind Regards
Lionel