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Thread: Rebus is ALIVE!!!

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
    Posts
    4,751
    Quote Originally Posted by Lionelgee View Post

    Did all the photographs of your disassembling and rebuilding a gearbox get reloaded? At the moment I will just remove covers; check inside and hook them up to be tested - who knows a really good gearbox might show itself to me.
    Lionel,

    I must get back to re-loading the photographs.
    I didn't do an apprenticeship but did work in engineering after going to Polytechnic in the UK. Mostly self taught from books, magazines and speaking to more experienced people (didn't have the internet way back then). Also learnt a lot by making mistakes.......

    Wallit's gearbox was the first car one I've stripped & re-built, done lots of motorcycle gearboxes over the years though. Only did Wallit's gearbox because broken synchro springs were found in the bottom.

    Lots of things other than the obvious to check for like wear on the synchro's, endfloat etc. etc. You need access to shims which sometimes come in a comprehensive overhaul kit then there's setting the pre-load on the bearings in the transfer box which requires more shims.

    You can see why including labour it can quickly cost $2.5K and upwards for someone to rebuild the box for you.

    The other option is fit it into your rolling chassis, test run it under load, listed for odd noises and if it seems OK fit it and move on to the next project.


    Colin


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '60 SII 109 ute (gone)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Narrogin WA
    Posts
    3,092
    Lionel, the good news is that the Rover gearbox is very easy to disassemble and only requires one extra-deep-spanner to tighten the nut on the end of the main-shaft which you may not have.

    Chipped or corroded teeth are easy to spot; corroded or rough bearings need replacing; the bronze bush on the main-shaft is often broken apparently the shaft flexes too much in 2nd and 3rd under high revs synchro rings and dog-clutch teeth wear but if you post photos someone can help you identify wear.

    When I did my S1 box I noticed that most of the joints that leak oil, were never sealed by the factory, such as; the steel shims on the transfer box need a thin smear of Loctite 515.

    Have a go on the bench, it is quite a fun job,

    Cheers Charlie

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Bundaberg, Queensland
    Posts
    2,782

    Working on an Old Friend

    Hello All,

    This weekend I returned to work on my Series 3 Long Wheel Base tray back ute that goes by the name of "Rebus". Yesterday I swapped the bell housing off a replacement gearbox that was sourced from a four cylinder motor. Rebus was originally fitted with a 2.6 litre six cylinder petrol Land Rover motor. So I reinstalled the 2.6 litre bell housing.

    After a bit of a check of the shed and the spare parts situation I realised something. The mental note I had months ago to order a new seal and gasket kit had not made it into an action. This meant it was the end of play for a while.

    Seeking something further to do, I went over to where Rebus has been sitting with the front wheels on ramps. I armed myself with copious amounts of degreaser, a number of different sized and shaped scrappers and a brass brush. Before I bought Rebus it was a farm vehicle and I reckon it has not had the chassis degreased or cleaned for years and years. Now after devoting most of today on the degreasing task everything is nice and clean - including one degreased gearbox.

    I also removed all the old by-passed fuel lines. The original six cylinder had the black nylon fuel lines and an electric fuel pump. When the 202 Holden motor went in the electric fuel pump and its lines were cut off. Part of the fuel line was fed into the Holden mechanical fuel pump. While the electric "Bendix" fuel pump was left with open ports and started to collect dust, mud and corrosion. I have replaced the electric pump and put in new fuel lines. I removed the old-knackered Holden mechanical fuel pump and blanked it off.

    Prior to it going up on ramps I had Rebus' engine running sweetly; then the starter motor went. Not long after the starter motor was replaced - the clutch went. Since the clutch went I took the job one step further and removed the gearbox as well. There must have been some alignment issues with the old gearbox because the previous owner said that it jumped out of top gear.

    Then a couple of months ago along came the Shortie and Rebus was left sitting on the ramps.

    Next weekend I will fit the new gaskets to Rebus's gearbox and then I will fit the gearbox and clutch. After that will be the brakes.

    Well that is it for me for the weekend and for the day. Tomorrow it is off to work so I can pay for my old Land Rover habit.

    Kind regards
    Lionel

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