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Thanks Grizz,
very interesting.
So it seems the flywheel is moved rearward approximately 5/8".
I reckon the flywheel is standard LR, bar the extra holes for the Holden bolt pattern.
By the way, was the oil light flickering, or on full glow?
The Workshop Manual I have (for 161ci and 186ci engines) states it is "normal" for the oil light to flicker at idle.
Cheers, Mick.
I have measured the recess in the back of the flywheel. it is 5/16"Quote:
Originally Posted by mick88
Meaning the flywheel is moved 5/16" if my maths are right.
It is interesting to me that the machining appears to all imperial.
The oil light sort of varied between flickering and on. Only after I had pulled the engine did I realise the light was connected to a gauge sender unit.
I dont know if this would have made any difference. My instinct says it would have because I expect the internals to be quite different.
The measurements are most likely imperial, as both the Holden and Land Rover engines would have been built before the metric system was introduced in the 1970's. It took years to implement, caused a lot of confusion, and some bloody big stuff ups along the way. I worked for an engineering business during those years.
Cheers, Mick.
Out of interest here is another purpose built flywheel that has been part of a Holden conversion kit.
It is very similar to a Holden red motor flywheel but is just a few mm larger in diameter across
the face to allow for the PCD of a 9.5" Land Rover pressure plate.
The centre of the flywheel is more like the Land Rover flywheel and has been engineered to take
a Land Rover spigot bush.
This flywheel has been turned from a billet of steel, as opposed to cast iron, so most likely
it would be a bit harder on a clutch plate.
This one weighs 12kg.
Cheers, Mick.
Many moons ago when i dabbled in the holden anchor series thing there was a guy in Scoresby that made these in which i did purchase one .Quote:
Originally Posted by mick88
The theory was it was the equivalent weight to a landy fly wheel and also excepted the landy clutch ect.
One of the best advantages i found was with the heavier Flywheel you squeezed a bit of torque out of the red anchor .
This one weighs 12kg, only one kilogram heavier than a standard Red Motor flywheel, and two and half kilograms short of a standardQuote:
Originally Posted by rangieman
2.25/2.6 Land Rover flywheel.
Cheers, Mick.
Well i know the one i had was the equivalent weight to the Landy one so likely different to yours [wink11]Quote:
Originally Posted by mick88
I setup the LR adaptor to able to use the LR clutch.
The run out was about 1-1.2mm I noticed while checking this that one one locator pin hole was ovalled but I ran out of nerve before extending the oval enough to get rid of the
runout. (I got it to about 0.5-0.6 and the oval was massive)
Plan B to have the holden flywheel redrilled has hit a wall none of the engineers I asked and showed what I wanted were prepared to drill that close to the edge.
Plan B1 Have a slightly bigger flywheel made was discarded on the basis of price. (I have bought another motor for less).
Plan C is to use the Holden clutch.
I havent installed it yet and any other suggestions are welcome.
How difficult could or should it be to accurately setup a Land Rover adaptor? I dont have one but think they should be obtainable.
Grizz,
sounds like your running into a few obstacles with your project.
I assume by making up another LR adaptor you mean drilling one to suit the Holden engine bell housing pattern.
The accuracy is all in the marking out, and ensuring that you have the adaptor centered on the Holden crank when
you mark out for the holes. Similar in a way to aligning a clutch plate when mating a motor and gearbox.
Even an alignment tool/boss turned up from a piece of wood will do the job. It just needs to be a precise fit over the
end of the crank, and in the centre of the LR adaptor. Some short 7/16 UNC bolts with the heads cut off, then turned
to a point and screwed into the Holden block will give you centre points, for the location of the bolt holes.
Rather than pick up another LR adaptor you might be able to get your existing one welded up by a local aluminium
welder, so that the inaccurate holes are blanked off, and start afresh with it.
Hope you can follow what I am talking about.
If you weren't so far away I would give you a hand with it.
Cheers, Mick.