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Thread: SERIES 3, 1973 with HOLDEN 186 MOTOR

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    24,386
    The engine originated as the 2.0 diesel in 1956 (or 1955 for testing), but a petrol version was planned all along.

    The petrol version, which had pistons running in the block instead of wet sleeves, and was 2.25l, appeared with the Series 2 in 1958.

    With the Series 2a in 1961, the diesel increased in capacity to 2.25, and ditched the sleeves. In fact, there were a lot more changes, and a lot of these also affected the petrol engine, as the two engines now shared as many parts as possible. This sharing includes the block, which meant the crankshaft dimensions (if not metallurgy and finish) of the two had to be the same.

    The engines were subject to ongoing continuous development throughout the rest of Series 2a and 3 production, with the major change being the introduction of five main bearings in late Series 3 production (not many of these, if any, were sold here - Australian production seems to have had a lot of three bearing engines to use up).

    The engines are completely interchangeable, and so are many of the parts, although not all; for example, the five bearing engines went metric.

    So any four cylinder engine from Series 2 to the end of Series 3 is a bolt in replacement (except for early 1958 88 Series 2, that used the Series 1 motor).

    With a legal disclaimer! From the late 1960s, increasingly strict emissions controls mandated by ADRs meant that there were various modifications to the engine accessories. It is unlikely that you would be picked up on any of these, however, but it is wise to be aware of what the vehicle should have. And avoid having a mixture of accessories - for example, the first change was positive crankcase ventilation - if you have partly this equipment and partly open crankcase ventilation, you are likely to end up eith no ventilation, which is likely to shorten engine life and may cause seal failure.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Irymple, Victoria, Australia
    Posts
    2,777
    Good looking project you have there to play with and it should keep you busy for a good spell.
    There is nothing wrong with having a Holden motor in your Landy, and a 186 in good nick is one of the best, but a pair of 3.54 diff centres
    from a Range Rover will make a big improvement. By the look of it you have a Johnson conversion kit, as the engine mounts look identical
    to the ones I have on a couple of vehicles here.
    Johnson conversions are one of the best and didn't appear to have any alignment issues, so don't be too fussed about that. Just make sure a
    all the mating surfaces are clean and even. If there are any burrs or lumps from being knocked or damaged just file them off. I have done
    thousands of kilometers with them and not had any gearbox issues.
    At the top of the Holden Powered Series Land Rovers page there is a link to an information booklet that was supplied with a Johnson Conversion.
    The adaptor plate should be a cast iron one like the one fitted to the engine I posted a pic of, and the flywheel should be a purpose made
    item almost identical to a standard Holden red motor flywheel (weight 11kg), but about 8mm larger in diameter, and drilled to accept the standard Land
    Rover 9.5 inch diaphragm clutch, as used on the Series 3's.
    The only mod I would do is get a mate with a lathe, or local engineering shop to turn you up a bush to fit in the centre of the flywheel to take
    the spigot bush. This way the whole length of the end of the gearbox main shaft runs in the bush, rather than just a 5-6 mm of it, as when the
    bush is fitted into the rear of the crankshaft. The first two pics I have posted is of a flywheel with the modification to accept the spigot bush in the flywheel.
    While you have the flywheel out I would remove the ring gear and replace it in the reverse, and in a different position (rotate it 60 degrees).
    Ring gear can be easily removed and refitted with a gas BBQ/oven.
    The flywheel may need surfacing too if it's done a lot of work.


    Cheers, Mick.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Western Australia
    Posts
    40

    THE LATEST

    Thank you John and Mick for your comments regarding the Holden motor and conversion information which I've taken on board. Madly researching conversions and identifying what has been done to "Forrest" and thoughts of just exactly what I want to do with him. Although my father's Series 2 Landy had a 186 and I am aware that conversions were carried out, I was not involved in the research and purchase due to crippling health issues I experienced in the early 1980's, my older brother handled that one. There are certain things I remember but by the time I was well again there were more important things to be getting on with other. At the end of the day there was no time to stuff around with perfecting the Landy because there was a shed and shortly after a house to be built, I'm a builder by trade.

    I know there are many things that will come to light as I continue to strip "Forrest" down and I am enjoying the process so far.

    Yesterday, after degreasing and cleaning "Forrest" at the yard, we managed to pick up some parts that we feel will be useful in our restoration project.

    Before and after the cleanup process.





    Our box of spare parts.







    Oh and we managed to get ourselves a front bumper.



    Also blogging about our experience if you want to take a look. Started out with "Bev" the series 2 and now have "Forrest" the series 3. "Bev" is waiting up the farm patiently but will be coming to the city soon.


    "Bev" the Series2A Landy (A farmgirl goes to the city): PICKING PARTS - A GOOD SCORE

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Western Australia
    Posts
    40

    THE ENGINE REMOVED

    Yesterday we removed the tub and today I removed the clutch, brake and steering column followed by the bulkhead. My brother and nephew came over for a look and helped me remove the engine. Veronica found the chassis number stamped into the rear left hand spring hanger




    We also managed to source some more parts which we're pretty happy about.



    Progress photos.








  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Western Australia
    Posts
    40

    HAPPY MAIL

    I've always been a lover of books, can't imagine life without them. Never expected to have these in my collection though.



    Arrived this morning. Looking forward to reading it.






    cheers
    Veronica


  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Western Australia
    Posts
    40
    Just about finished stripping the chassis and having a go at my steering relay. Thanks to TimNZ I have been able to make up a Steering Relay Remover thingy with some old bits of steel I had laying around. I know there is a reason I keep this crap so it's good when it finally gets used. Fingers crossed it works for me too.





    With the assistance of my brother and a CAD program, I've had some new pieces fabricated for repairs to the chassis.






    I've also invested in an early birthday present to myself.



    Gearbox mounts are stuffed.





  7. #27
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Western Australia
    Posts
    40

    YOU LITTLE BEAUTY

    As I mentioned in the previous post, Garry had obtained information from TimNZ's posts showing how he removed his steering relay with his handy creation.


    Garry located some pieces of 75 x 75 x 6 steel angle and some 12mm x 600mm threaded rod and proceeded to construct a steering relay removal thingy. Over the last week the offending part has been liberally treated/doused with CRC and Penetrene.




    It seems the 2 tonne jack was not capable of doing the job. He could hire a 4 tonne jack from Kennards Hire or buy one at Supercheap Auto on sale for $34.00. No prizes for guessing we now own a 4 tonne jack.

    What a contraption, packed and clamped and ready for the 4 tonne jack to slide on under.



    Ever so slowly it started to move. You can just see it starting to rise up and get higher and higher.





    Finally, out it comes and you can see just how dirty and rusty it is.




    To say that Garry is stoked is an understatement. Our collection of tools and implements is growing and all will come in handy, along with the knowledge gained from the AULRO forum when it's time to strip down "Bev".
    Thanks and credit for the steering relay remover thingy must go to TimNZ. Two for two. YAY!


  8. #28
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Western Australia
    Posts
    40

    PULLDOWN CONTINUES

    I've been thinking about whether to remove and replace the badly rusted pieces of the chassis before I send it away for sandblasting and today I made the decision to go ahead and do just that.





    Slowly cut back the rusted bits until I reached solid steel.





    All the waste bits.






  9. #29
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Irymple, Victoria, Australia
    Posts
    2,777
    I like your work.
    Following this thread with interest.

    Cheers, Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Durban South Africa
    Posts
    1

    In need of CAD Drawings please

    Hi. I just purchased a 72 109 Series 3 which is in need of chassis repair from the front brace forward. It would be of great help to me to have the CAD drawing your brother did for these sections. Did he do drawings for the front spring hangars as well?

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