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Thread: Bluey the Series 3 Ute

  1. #1
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    Bluey the Series 3 Ute

    Hey guys, did my intro post in the S3 section but thought I'd best post up here with some pics of Bluey, my 1975 ute with Holden 202 motor.
    DSC_6299.jpgMessaging1500293281495.jpg


    Had a good look over it on the weekend and the plan is to get it ready for registration.

    Couple of items I'm not sure about though - anyone tell me what this is? I think it's something to do with the lights or could it be from the old gas system?
    DSC_6338.jpg

    Looks like this switch is for the high/low beam - is this type of switch normal?
    DSC_6332.jpg

    First jobs will be to tidy up a lot of loose wiring, remove air horns from roof and get hold of an original air cleaner assembly, so I can connect the PCV pipe work properly (any one got one in the shed?).

    Will update as I go.

    Cheers Cookie

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    Quote Originally Posted by cookie monster View Post

    Couple of items I'm not sure about though - anyone tell me what this is? I think it's something to do with the lights or could it be from the old gas system?
    DSC_6338.jpg
    Looks like a horn.

    Quote Originally Posted by cookie monster View Post
    Looks like this switch is for the high/low beam - is this type of switch normal?
    DSC_6332.jpg
    It's a dip switch, but I didn't think S3s had one there. Yours is earlier than mine though. Mine has a column switch.
    ​JayTee

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    Thanks Johntins, never thought of the horn as I couldn't find the switch and pushing the end of the indicator stalk did nothing. Previous owner probably disconnected it, in favour of the twin airhorns.
    I'm assuming that the end of the indicator stalk is the horn switch?

    Previous owner must have also installed the foot switch for the high beam. Where is the factory high beam switch?

    Cheers Cookie

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    Quote Originally Posted by cookie monster View Post
    Thanks Johntins, never thought of the horn as I couldn't find the switch and pushing the end of the indicator stalk did nothing. Previous owner probably disconnected it, in favour of the twin airhorns.
    I'm assuming that the end of the indicator stalk is the horn switch?

    Previous owner must have also installed the foot switch for the high beam. Where is the factory high beam switch?

    Cheers Cookie
    Same stalk as the horn button.
    ​JayTee

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    Thanks for the confirmation.

    Cookie

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    The high beam part of the switch is prob no longer working so its been modified by putting a dip switch on the floor same as a s3 im stripping atm. The high beam "flash" dont work on my driver s3 but the dip still does. Needs relays to take the load of the switch same as all landys, even late defenders have problems which is fixed by fitting a "Traxide" kit so it has been said.

    Cheers Rod

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    Quote Originally Posted by 67hardtop View Post
    The high beam part of the switch is prob no longer working so its been modified by putting a dip switch on the floor same as a s3 im stripping atm. The high beam "flash" dont work on my driver s3 but the dip still does. Needs relays to take the load of the switch same as all landys, even late defenders have problems which is fixed by fitting a "Traxide" kit so it has been said.

    Cheers Rod
    I have fond memories of the foot operated dip switch, and I actually prefer them.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

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    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
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    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  8. #8
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    Only problem with foot dip switches is that you can't tell you are on high beam when driving with the lights on in daylight and the sunlight shining on the instrument panel means you can't see the high beam light.
    John

    JDNSW
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    Thanks for the confirmation guys. I plan to put a high beam light in, as the dashboard one doesn't work.
    Hopefully get time this weekend to have a look.

  10. #10
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    So was able to spend a couple of hours on Bluey over the weekend before a storm blew in and started looking at the mess of wiring in the engine bay and cab:
    DSC_0013.jpgDSC_0014.jpg
    Started tracing back the wiring into the cab and having to pull the dash apart to find the ends of the cables, so I know what not to disconnect. The wiring is a mass of short lengths of cable soldered together to make one longer length.

    Another item I have been looking at and researching is the Positive Crankcase Ventilation or PVC for short. The previous long time owner had run the car on gas, so I'm not sure what he did with the PCV pipework, as the guy I bought it off had pulled the gas out of it and left it like this:

    DSC_0012.jpg

    I'm assuming that the hose that comes off the carbi and has the screwdriver in it, would have gone to a carbon canister originally, as there is no port in the inlet manifold for the PCV hose to return gasses to the inlet side of the engine ?

    So with the weather raining and blowing a gail on Sunday morning, I happened to find a almost complete 202 for sale, complete with carby and manifold for $50. After collecting the engine, seams as though it was rebuilt a few years ago to run on gas, so has the hardened valve seats etc done to it - will make a great spare engine.

    So I now have an inlet manifold that I can connect the PCV valve hose to and run the system as it should be. Whilst I still look to source an OE Holden air filter assembly to suit the engine (so I can connect the 'clean air in' hose from the port just next to the oil filler) ill block off the 'clean air in' port in the rocker cover (next to the oil filler) and continue with the vented filler cap. This should allow me to get through rego, as the vehicle is pre 1976.

    New Inlet Manifold ready for cleaning and I will make a blanking plate up to block off were the EGR valve should sit, as this is not required on my engine:
    DSC_0036.jpg

    Carbi that came with the spare engine:
    DSC_0032.jpg

    Question for those in the know, is the 'new' carbi a better unit than the one that is currently fitted ? If so, I might look to fit it when the manifold goes on ?

    Cheers Cookie

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