Unseized hp 179

Vk black motor had the 12 port head.

There is an old bloke in our local car club that was an engineer at holden during the red motor introduction, I will ask him about the HP motors when I see him next.
I have a 179 HP block motor in my fc holden.

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Originally Posted by Homestar

So they say, but I've run both a 202 and 186 in series landies and they run and rev fine in this application IMO.

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Yep.
One of my uncle's fitted a nicely built 186 into his Series 3 and it worked well.
Never an issue on the freeway, he would cruise at well above the posted limit, but even the original 2.25 was capable of going above 130km/h after he freed up the induction and exhaust sides of the engine.
He did have a Fairey overdrive and he had to be careful with rear axles. [emoji23]

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Originally Posted by PhilipA

BUT 202 and 186 are reputed to not rev as well as a 179 and don't like the revs with LR low gearing at highway speed.
Of course ideal would be a 12 port head engine from a VE? Commodore

Regards Philip A

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In about 1967 I ran an EH 149 in Showroom Stock class at Lowood. It would rev happily to 6200 on hydraulic lifters.

More than a few are in a bad way so encouraged by the relative ease by which the manifold studs came out i thought onwards and upwards. Oooeer! Are they pressed in ? I think they are. Consulting some half arsed manual it says “ interference fit”.
Back to the drawing board, wrenching on a couple for a quarter of an hour was doing my hernia no good at all! Things you learn.

cheers,

D

Everything else looks ok.

cheers,
D

If you need a high performance 186 let me know.
My series 3 came with a balanced 186 with a 12 port head and roller rockers, It ran very nicely and was very quiet. It has a mild cam and will enjoy highway speeds in a Land Rover

Ian
Bittern

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Originally Posted by Dark61

I managed to get the engine turning again with liberal doses of diesel. Turns over on the starter with no plugs in. Plugs in and starter doesnt want to turn. Rocker cover off and can see one of the push rods and valve arms? loose - becoming real tight when turning the engine with some bolts in the HB. Aplogies if terminology incorrect - not looked this far into an engine before. I’m going to get the head off and take a look but any ideas on whats going on?
All comments apreciated as usual.cheers,
D

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If motor has not run for quite a while the hydraulic lifters will have blead off you need to crank the motor with the plugs out untill the lifters fill with oil so valves will open fully . Same goese with a new motor the lifters will need filling before cranking with plugs in or you can bend push rods. From memory the rocker studs are pressed into the head .

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Originally Posted by 1950landy

If motor has not run for quite a while the hydraulic lifters will have blead off you need to crank the motor with the plugs out untill the lifters fill with oil so valves will open fully . Same goese with a new motor the lifters will need filling before cranking with plugs in or you can bend push rods. From memory the rocker studs are pressed into the head .

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Good practise was to soak lifters in engine oil before fitting ,

I have even seen people support lifters and depress the guts to get oil into them .

Also most engines you were able to remove the dissy and make a adaptor to drive the oil pump with a drill to get oil around and through engine gallery`s [wink11]

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Originally Posted by rangieman

Good practise was to soak lifters in engine oil before fitting ,

I have even seen people support lifters and depress the guts to get oil into them .

Also most engines you were able to remove the dissy and make a adaptor to drive the oil pump with a drill to get oil around and through engine gallery`s [wink11]

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I use one of these pump bottles to circulate oil through a new motor.
Just remove the pressure switch and screw a fitting in, then pump a litre or two through it.
Then add more oil to the engine to bring the sump level up to the correct mark on the dipstick.

Cheers, Mick.

[QUOTE=1950landy;2854092 From memory the rocker studs are pressed into the head .[/QUOTE]

That is correct. The studs are a press fit in the pedestals. Easily removed if you get a bit of round bar cut to a length halfway up the threaded section of the stud from the pedestal, drill it to a close fit over the stud and put a nut on the stud and wind the stud out of the pedestal. For my race engines i would tap a thread in the pedestal and use a screw-in stud with Loctite.