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Wiring starts, toggle switch is for port and starboard fuel tank sender switching, red lamp ignition/charge vacant hole going to have a cigarette lighter
On a seperate panel I will have a temperature gauge and oil pressure
wired instrument lights to come on when head lights are switched on dispensing with dash switch
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Cheers Paul
Wiring complete everything working as it should.
Going to do timing and try and start her tomorrow
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Cheers Paul
Big day today Opal moved under her own steam[bigsmile]
Went for a blat around the block all gears work as do high and low range and all the fluids seem to be contained.
Clutch is slipping so I'm guessng a bit of adjustment
Set the timing at 5 degrees advance (as stated in Holden Manual) is this about right for modern fuels
Idle is a bit rough but that could be anything will check plug gaps, point gaps and have a look at the carbie as well (motor hasn't run in a decade or more)
Initialy used an electronic Bosch dizzy which worked great at idle but when reved engine would die and not start for 20/30 minutes then run fine again until it was reved then it would shut down again, I'm thinking theres a fault in the module that has the four wires going to it, when I opened it up yhere was no grease in there.So using points dizzy
Brakes may need abit of a bleed....pedal is not sinking but becomes firmer with a few pumps
A heads up on the timing setting would be great....all in all a good result I recon[bigsmile]
Attachment 160850 Attachment 160851 2a Land Rover perfect social distancing gauge
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Cheers Paul
Book says 5 degrees static advance. I used to go as much as 10 and back off a bit if it pings under load.Quote:
Originally Posted by bemm52
Paul you can buy modules on line for the Bosch HEI dizzies, reasonable price.
I always carry a spare new one under the seat, plus a points dizzy as well.
Might pay to check your coil too though by the sound of it, as it might be getting hot.
Is it an 8-9 volt coil that requires a resistor or a 12 volt coil? Best coil for the HEI dizzy
is a Bosch HEC715, very noticeable difference.
Timing set at 6 degrees with HEI dizzy.
Vehicle is looking great.
Cheers, Mick.
Getting closer door tops on order and brakes and clutch need adjustment no biggie.........I hope
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Sitting low at the back or the fronts high, series 3 salisbury in 2a NATO military chassis
I had problems with tailshaft fouling chassis so put blocks on the springs under the back axle to raise the diff and get clearance for prop shaft, maybe I should remove these and make some wedges instead to cant the diff, still pondering this one
Cheers Paul
A bit of an update I think I’ll refit the seatbelts as it’s a 1970 and I don’t want any road worthy issues. Clutch adjustment has taken three days...I thought I had it yesterday and then this morning the pedal went all the way to the floor. Rechecked everything and I think the problem was a faulty bleed screw. Rebled everything and went for a couple of klm drive with multiple gear changes and all seems good, tomorrow will tell
gear selection isn’t as positive as it should be and I suspect the alignment peg at the bottom of the gear stick. Will check this tomorrow.
I took the blocks I put on the rear springs off and the tail shaft doesn’t foul any more things must have settled in a bit. I repositioned front spring pivot bolt to the upper hole in the chassis which has levelled the car more see how that settles
Pulls a bit to the right under heavy breaking so I’ll try and adjust this out
The Holden 3.3 is purring like a kitten but is certainly a different driving experience to a Rover 2.25, it’s going to take some getting used too ,it certainly doesn’t have the torque and low rev grunt of the 2.25 off road and seems to need to drop a gear further down than my Rover
It maybe the difference between a 88” and a 109” be interesting when my other 109 build gets to this stage with a Rover motor
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Cheers Paul
Love it Paul - great stance and colour.
Pulling on braking, since it has not been used for a while could be rusty drums, which will come good with a bit of use - or it could be a leaking seal or cylinder. It is, in my experience, unlikely to be adjustment unless one wheel is way out.
I’m having problems wit the engine cutting out seemingly for no reason when hot
Im fairly sure the electrical side of things is fine so I went down the fuel trail.
Removing the air cleaner and pumping the throttle there is no atomised fuel things are dry, wait two or three minutes and it will fire up and run beautifully until next time it konks out which seems random.
Did some final tinkering with the clutch today then warmed the car to operating temperature and went for a drive motor runs faultlessly (it is a lot cooler today)
Gave the car a bit of a workout as my confidence in it returned and came home,
When I got home I opened the bonnet and the carbie sounded like it was boiling, removed the air cleaner and pumped throttle no fuel spray, waited a minute or two for the bubbling to subside a bit pumped throttle and fuel sprayed.
So I’m guessing for some reason the carbie is getting too hot but don’t know the cure.
Could someone more knowledgeable please give their two bobs worth
Cheers Paul
