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I think I've solved the fuel problem by fitting an insulating block under the carby
Now I have a clutch problem the release bearing has jammed in for some reason and the clutch pedal is flopping around not really doing anything.
Attachment 162180 Attachment 162181 so tomorrow I'll pull out the gearbox and see what is going on, didn't expect this one but its all learning and maybe this is the reason for my slipping clutch
Cheers Paul
Before pulling the box, check the pins on the sleeve joining the release shaft to the slave cylinder bellcrank!
Looked at this thanks for the heads up John, shaft and crank arm locked solid tried a few well aimed taps and bangs with a hammer to no availQuote:
Originally Posted by JDNSW
Cheers Paul
As it turned out I didn't have to remove the gear box [bigsmile]
Maladjustment on my part had the slave cylinder piston pop out and jam the clutch actuator lever [bigwhistle]
Attachment 162208 the only way to release the pin at the bottom of the pushrod to free things was to unbolt the slave cylinder.
The problem was easy to see once the dust boot was removed, no damage to the cylinder thankfully and all working as it should at the moment
Wasn't a bad way to spend a few hours on a sunny winters day
Attachment 162210
Cheers Paul
Ok good news is, clutch mechanism from the pedal to the top hat release bearing is working fine and every thing is within tolerance
Bad news clutch is still slipping, my gut feeling is the pressure plate that came in a blue box is possibly not suitable for the job.
The pressure plate I removed had badly worn fingers probably from PO riding clutch pedal
Attachment 162244 Attachment 162245 Attachment 162246
I didn't really give it much thought at the time and ordered a 2.25 petrol Land rover pressure plate, this could have been a wrong move as it would seem the springs are not strong enough for the holden motor,
I'm going to remove the gearbox and see if plate is contaminated first as unfortunately in my ignorance I used some grease on the gearbox shaft, not a lot but who knows.
I have another pressure plate from a Holden conversion but I was reluctant to use it because someone had welded a bit of flat bar to it, I'm now thinking maybe this was to balance it after a refurb at some stage
Attachment 162247 so maybe I will use it, will know more after the gearbox is out
Cheers Paul
Don't know if it will fit, but a diesel pressure plate should have a higher clamping force than a petrol one. Only guessing.
Correct, I believe.Quote:
Originally Posted by 67hardtop
Just make sure it is not slipping because of pressure from the release bearing or the pressure plate loose.
Got the gearbox separated from the fly wheel using the through the door technique more working room than I expected.
Part of my problem Attachment 162284 fingers touching the housing
Gap on spare engine Attachment 162285
I'm going to buy a new clutch plate bolt up both pressure plates and check clearances to LR manual specs
It seems both of the old pressure plates have had the fingers adjusted at some time looking at the butchered lock screws
Attachment 162286 Attachment 162287 my prestine new one Attachment 162288
Maybe my new one needs adjusting, will phone around monday to see if I can get a clutch plate locally, may as well do it now and get everything right from word go.
Sharp learning curve here
Attachment 162289
Cheers Paul
Did you fit a new flexible line in the hydraulic system of the clutch?
A similar issue that happens to series brakes sometimes can happen to the clutch, a bit of crap in the line due to hose deterioration can act like a one way valve and restrict fluid return, resulting in the thrust bearing not completely returning and the clutch not being completely released.
If its a purpose built flywheel for the conversion it might be thicker than a standard Holden flywheel in order to achieve more weight.
Make sure when you put it all together that the thrust bearing is clear of the fingers when the clutch is released.
I have edited this message as the thrust bearing carrier length issue i mentioned is relevant to the series 3 type clutch, not the 2A.
I will PM you my phone number if you want to call me.
Cheers, Mick.
After a discussion with Mick88 last night he suggested I take a few pictures of what I have, rather than send them PM I'll post them here, as others may be interested
Any comments welcome
Red 202 flywheel Attachment 162366 has original holes and has been redrilled and tapped for mystery pressure plate Attachment 162367
3.3 flywheel Attachment 162368 holes drilled for either 9" or 9 1/2" Rover pressure plate either will bolt up Attachment 162369Attachment 162370 diaphragm wont work with 2a release bearing obviously but same stud pattern
Red 202 flywheel hole centres Attachment 162371 Attachment 162372Attachment 162373 10 5/8" possibly
3.3 flywheel hole centres (Rover compatible)Attachment 162374 Attachment 162375 Attachment 162376 10 3/8" possibly
Red 202 pressure plate fixings Attachment 162377
3.3 pressure plate fixings Attachment 162378
Red 202 spigot bearing Attachment 162379
3.3 spigot bearing appears to be Rover spec Attachment 162380
Don't know if its relevant or not but both motors have Holden starter motors
Flywheels might be different thicknesses but that was a bit problematic to measure them so I measured from face of the adapter plate back to the flywheel using a steel rule as a straight edge Attachment 162383
Red 202 Attachment 162384
3.3 Attachment 162385
both seem to be the same relative to the gearbox
The 3.3 is the motor I'm using and it would seem everything Rover marries up happily but I'm curious about which clutch pressure plate the 202 is using
202 Pressure plate 9" Attachment 162367 Attachment 162381 Attachment 162382 won't bolt to anything Rover but clutch plate fits
I can't understand why the 202 flywheel wasn't drilled to accept a Rover clutch it would have pulled the holes in away from the ring gear and edge of the flywheel
When my new clutch plate arrives I can move onto something more productive[bigwhistle][bigrolf]
Cheers Paul
