Holden 2a build "OPAL"

Head back together with valves lapped, poured metho in and no leaks, so I’m taking that as a win.

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Next is the block

Cheers Paul

Clean motor now need to fabricate a couple of brackets to lock the flywheel to the adapter so I can crack the bolts.

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Cheers Paul

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As apart as I’m going to go. Fibre timing gear looks good.
I’ll cleanup pistons and reassemble everything, #1 cylinder has been sleeved so I’m assuming pistons are slightly over size.
A bit of work but now I know what I’ve got 👍🏾

Cheers Paul

I can relate to the little ladies needs concerning back yard, currently 1 daughters yacht, same daughters Land Rover second daughters Land Rover husbands tinny, old ford Ute and Series 2A Ute under refurbishment so I feel your pain good luck.
Looking forward to the build.[biggrin]

Just found out I’m viewing the earlier posts but I still get it.

Some issues
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Part of the ring missing #3 cylinder

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Uneven ring wear #2 cylinder

Ive ordered 040” rings as stamped on piston and .030 con rod bearings
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I will also hone the cylinder bore

Cheers Paul

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New Rings and bearings fitted

Cheers Paul

ready for paint..crank shaft is at 10 degrees before TDC I think I read somewhere that at this setting the motor is guaranteed to fire,I’ll drop the distributor in with rotor arcing on #1 cylinder

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Cheers Paul

That should keep it out of trouble for a while.[thumbsupbig]

One trick we used to do was whack in a set of OS rings and file the end gap down to suit the bore - the metal these engines are made of is similar to a hard cheese and the tops of the bores generally open up a fair bit more than further down. I would have stuck some 060 rings on those 040 pistons if the tops of the bores are flared out but for what you need it for it will go fine for yonks. There's plenty of meat in the bores for another rebore if you ever wanted to.

Did you replace the fibre timing gear on the cam at all? If it's original it's on borrowed time is all. Won't hurt the engine at all as the valves clear the pistons when they stop but they are a bit of a pain in the bum to do in the vehicle afterwards.

I would also throw a new oil pump at it as well as a matter of course.

Timing gear has been replaced for steel/metal at some stage👍🏽
Hadn’t considered oil pump as a consumable I do have an oil pressure gauge installed so I’ll monitor it.
on the 3.3 oil pressure raised to maybe 40psi when reved but dropped to maybe 10psi at idle is this right, the Rover 2.25,s in my other vehicles keep a fairly constant oil pressure of about 45/50psi and don’t drop at idle.

Cheers Paul

Red paint should give me some extra HP

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and of course I ordered the wrong plugs

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Cheers Paul