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Thread: Holden 2a build "OPAL"

  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by gromit View Post
    I found a Series III pipe 16" in length I got from Four Wheel Drives. Used to have them off-the-shelf.

    Sketch attached was using pipes from my IIa & III


    Colin
    Thanks for measuring.... this is what I have IMG_4852.jpg IMG_4853.jpg

    This is front shock absorber at full stretch...a good 50mm+ off where it should be IMG_4859.jpg ...........back shocker fits at nearly full stretch

    Hopefully weight of engine and gearbox will bring front end down

    My little brake pipe bending jig IMG_4855.jpg

    Cheers Paul

  2. #42
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    Shocks fitted I was using wrong set

    however brake hoses still seem to short even with the weight of motor, thinking I will fabricate some new bolt on brackets for the top fixing.

    IMG_4888.jpg IMG_4894.jpg

    Cheers Paul

  3. #43
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    Finally got the silver thing bolted behind the blue thing

    IMG_4933.jpg IMG_4935.jpg

    Bit of a production line happening

    IMG_4937.jpg

    A few bits to be bolted to both engines then I can start rust removal on bulkheads

    Cheers Paul

  4. #44
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    Humm,, very blue,, very silver 👍

  5. #45
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    My nicely painted clutch actuator lever from the slave cylinder was at completely at wrong angle to work correctly PO had mounted slave cylinder under the bell housing bracket to compensate. I had another modified lever from another gearbox which fitted up great

    IMG_4940.jpg IMG_4941.jpg uncut actuator sitting on the gearbox


    Why do rods need extending or actuators changed, my 2a 88 is almost out of adjustment on slave cylinder rod also.


    Also got hand brake connected up and adjusted


    IMG_4942.jpg need to find a better return spring somewhere....it seems to foul on push rod going into the hand brake and I cant see a way of avoiding this


    Cheers Paul

  6. #46
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Most likely reason to need more movement is either worn holes/pins in the coupling to the gearbox clutch release shaft or trying to use a Series 3 pressure plate with no spacer.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  7. #47
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    Thanks for your imput John, the pressure plate is a 9" three finger type and brand new
    the joiner tube also has no slop in it with pins fitting snugly.
    If clutch works OK when pedal and master cylinder are fitted up I will consider cranking the actuator arm on my other vehicle, seems a better option than extending push rod
    Looking at parts manual maybe someone has had withdrawal mechanism apart and cross shaft is a few splines out, l didn't touch it because it seemed alright.

    Cheers Paul

  8. #48
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    Got the manifolds on today, turns out my 3.3 has a 9 port head and not a 12 port head don't know if this is correct or not but it is what it is

    IMG_4954.jpg

    Started on my best bulkhead

    IMG_4950.jpg

    Cheers Paul

  9. #49
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    Bulkhead rust free..... need to clean up and paint after I've sorted another bulkhead for my Storm build

    IMG_4959.jpg

    Cheers Paul

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by bemm52 View Post
    Got the manifolds on today, turns out my 3.3 has a 9 port head and not a 12 port head don't know if this is correct or not but it is what it is

    IMG_4954.jpg

    Started on my best bulkhead

    IMG_4950.jpg

    Cheers Paul
    PM sent
    URSUSMAJOR

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