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Thread: Using the original Series 3 electrical fuel pump or not after conversion...

  1. #1
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    Using the original Series 3 electrical fuel pump or not after conversion...

    Hi folks....

    Car is a series 3 landrover (Long wheel base). It has two fuel tanks. It has an holden red engine in it.

    Question is, do I still need to connect and use the origional electronic fuel pump or is the fuel pump on the Holden Red Engine enough? What have others done in that situation.... Thanks.

    H

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    From what I know of S3's they had a mechanical pump, The holden pump should be good enough , I would say some one has fitted the electric pump when the second tank was fitted . The electric pump would help to give faster delivery of fuel should you run out of fuel in one tank & change over to the second tank .

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    There is defently an "electric" fuel pump, it also has a filter in it from what I understand.



    https://www.allfourx4.com.au/epages/...oducts/PRC3901 is the part, so I am not sure if it is needed..... with a conversion.

    Has anybody, with a red engine, got this pump in their fuel system? I have a LWB with two tanks, that are under seat.

    Thanks.

    H

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    Lionelgee is online now YarnMaster Silver Subscriber
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    Hello Farmer,

    If your Series 3 Land Rover came with a 2.6 litre petrol motor it would have had a cylinder style electric pump fitted to it as standard. Well at least the four of mine did.

    I have a Holden 202 motor fitted by a previous owner. It had the mechanical fuel pumped fitted to it. The electric fuel pump was by-passed during the conversion. The advantage of the mechanical fuel pump is that it matches the pressure range of the Holden Stromberg carburettor.

    I learnt this through the benefit of hindsight. When I got my Land Rover its Holden fuel pump was on its last legs. So I bought a new electric cylinder pump and removed and blanked off the Holden mechanical pump. I then had to buy a Weber pressure regulator so I could reduce the pressure from the electric pump so it kept the Stromberg carburettor happy.

    It would have been cheaper and probably less hassle if I had just bought a rebuild kit for the Holden fuel pump. Or replaced it with a more modern Goss brand which does not feature the glass sediment bowl.

    P.S. I just checked prices on eBay - and I paid more for the Weber pressure regulator than I would have if I just bought a new Goss mechanical fuel pump. Add on to this the cost of the blanking plate, the new electric pump $$$ for really very little gain.

    Kind regards
    Lionel

  5. #5
    Lionelgee is online now YarnMaster Silver Subscriber
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    Hello Farmer,

    To work out whether your vehicle originally came with a six cylinder 2.6 litre petrol motor or a four cylinder 2.25 litre petrol motor have a look at the measurements in the attached photographs.

    The first set of two photos with a green paint background is off a six cylinder fitted vehicle.
    The second set of two photos with a Camino Gold (baby poo) colour is a four cylinder.

    This method works as long as you have not taken the bulkhead or seat box out.

    Kind regards
    Lionel
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    Quote Originally Posted by itfarmer View Post
    There is defently an "electric" fuel pump, it also has a filter in it from what I understand.



    https://www.allfourx4.com.au/epages/...oducts/PRC3901 is the part, so I am not sure if it is needed..... with a conversion.

    Has anybody, with a red engine, got this pump in their fuel system?
    Not in my fuel system but I have one on the shelf (left over spares from my 110 County V8 - it was used for the fuel transfer pump from sill tanks to main). I think I'd better put it up for sale.
    Ron B.
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    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

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    The reason that electric fuel pumps were fitted to at least Range Rovers was that heat in the engine bay tended to vaporize fuel and they would suffer vapor locks.
    AFAIR the RRC had a return hose to the fuel tank which was a smaller diameter than the feed hose so that there was a constant flow of cooler fuel to the carbys.

    I guess it is up to you whether you feel it is enough of a potential problem , which would be most shown on hot starting in high temperatures.

    The old Facets were a good unit, except when they died 150Km out of Riyadh when I was travelling alone on a pipeline track. Luckily I carried a spare but I swallowed a bit of petrol.

    Regards PhilipA

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    Lionelgee is online now YarnMaster Silver Subscriber
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    Hello All,

    I just checked the Land Rover Series III: Repair Operation Manual (1981) Edition 4... A.K.A " The Green Bible" on page 19-22 it has the following details for the 2.6 litre motor's fuel pump.

    The original Part Number was 568189. This was updated to PRC3343 ... then a further update to PRC3901
    .

    Kind regards
    Lionel
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    One thing with an electric pump is that it will prime the carb up quicker if the truck sits for a while, good if its cold and the battery is a bit weak, after about a week my carb seems to be empty and alittle harder to start and a slow winding motor pumps stuff all fuel

  10. #10
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    In the early days of motoring, fuel was fed by gravity from the tank to the carburettor. This worked satisfactorily with high bodywork and a side draft or updraft carburettor, and had the advantage of simplicity, although it was considered normal practice to switch the petrol off after stopping the engine, in case the needle valve stuck. Ford's Model T was notorious for suffereing from fuel starvation on steep hills with the under seat tank, if you were a bit low in fuel, and the last year of production and their Model A moved the tank to behind the instrument panel (a common location on many contemporary cars).

    But lower bodywork, and a dawning concern for separating the petrol tank from the passenger compartment led to the tank in most cars moving to the rear of the vehicle by the early thirties. The issue then was how to get fuel to the carburettor. Early methods included pressurising the tank either with a hand pump or from the exhaust (or both), but this was replaced by the Vacuum tank, where an auxiliary tank of about two litres placed on the upper firewall behind the engine was filled automatically by manifold vacuum. This was an effective but expensive and not entirely trouble free solution.

    The development of petrol resistant rubber by about 1930 made possible relatively cheap diaphragm fuel pumps. These took two tracks - mechanical ones and electrical ones.

    Mechanical pumps were simpler and cheaper to make, but required substantial changes to the engine - changes to the crankcase casting, an eccentric on the camshaft etc. This meant that they tended to be used by manufacturers with high production numbers, especially in the US, where 6v electrical systems continued for longer.

    Small scale manufacturers, including Rover, adopted electric pumps, as these required no changes to the engine, and presumably they were happy enough to continue not providing a place on the engine for a mechanical pump until the introduction of the 2.0 diesel in 1957, and this may have been because of the pressure and volume requirements for the diesel. This continued on with derivatives of that engine. The six, derived from a 1940 design, as was the 1.6 and 2.0 petrol engine, retained the electric pump.

    In tank electric pumps were a much later development, the result of hot engine compartments packed tight that increasingly caused vapor lock issues.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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