you will need to post a photo of a carby upside down to refresh my memory. There is a plug for the main jet that should have a copper ring gasket on it.
These usually dont leak but if the copper is missing that could be the problem.
Ian
Bittern
Hello All,
I was just working on a Series 2A which had a Holden 202 motor fitted that was from a HQ to the shortie Land Rover. One of the areas of interest was its fuel supply. In particular I noticed how fuel literally trickles out from the bottom of the float chamber. It then drops onto the intake manifold and down on to the hot exhaust manifold.
I removed that carburettor and installed one that I had bought second-hand. This newly installed carburettor leaked too from the same place.
A number of years prior to today's experience I had another Holden Stromberg carburettor and it leaked from the same place too.
What part - gasket or seal is giving way to allow the loss of fuel?
I intend to thoroughly clean and rebuild the carburettor - it would be just good to know.
Kind regards
Lionel
you will need to post a photo of a carby upside down to refresh my memory. There is a plug for the main jet that should have a copper ring gasket on it.
These usually dont leak but if the copper is missing that could be the problem.
Ian
Bittern
my money is on the main jet cover leaking. Often people crush the copper washer when putting it back in. Could also just be the float level is too high and fuel is running out over the accelerator pump linkage.
The copper washers on the two plugs if you are not careful can get distorted. It could also be coming out the throttle shaft if the carby is flooding.
Had the same problem when we cranked up my 3.3 the other day
Fairly hard to see where the leak is actually coming from and at first we suspected the two screws with copper washers at bottom as mentioned above
Tightened screws and problem was still there, lifted top of carbie and float chamber was full and overflowing down lever thingy at the back
Undid fuel line boss coming into float chamber and found some crud stopping rubber capped needle from seating....actuated by float arm a bit like a ball cock valve in a tank
Cleaned and reassembled problem gone
initially we were convinced it was the two screws underneath so...I’ve probably over tightened them
Cheers Paul
Yeah, had this issue myself on more than one occasion - float level or needle and seat is where I’d be looking.
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
Kits for these are readably available. I'm with Gav, needle and seat, but that will cause rich running to say the least. The old ones had brass to brass needle and seats. The newer ones had some sort of plasticky needle. It was supposed to seal better. Sure.
Bung a kit in it, set the float level ( fun ), and it'll be fine. I don't like Strombergs, but it's hard to find a simpler single choke carb. Well, SUs apart. But SUs were special.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
Hello All,
Thank you for the replies. I will have a closer look tomorrow at the replacement carburettor and try to establish exactly where it is leaking from. Both their previous histories and last time the carburettors were regularly used is unknown.
Both carburettors had to be given petrol down the throat to initially start the motor. However, as soon as the fuel entered the top it was exiting the bottom.
The initial fuel delivery was sporadic and weak. I subsequently removed the outlet pipe and cleaned and flushed the gauze. Then installed all new fuel line. Fitted a new mechanical fuel pump, Fitted a new inline fuel filter before the fuel pump.
The car starts with the newly fitted carburettor with the first press of the starter button. The engine can handle increased revs and then goes back to idle. The disconcerting thing is the trickle of fuel out from the bottom of the float chamber onto the manifolds.
I am starting to lean towards the suggestion of of the float level and fuel rising up and out over the accelerator pump. The area around the screws does not hold any drips.
I will be ordering an overhaul kit once I have light to read the identification numbers by.
Kind regards
Lionel
Kits for these are universal and contain all the parts for most models - you’ll find you’re left with a pile of parts from the kit once your done. Last time I did one the kit was $14 - not sure what they run to these days, it’s been about 15 years since I did one.
Let us know how you get on. 👍
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
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