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I can't see why this dose not compress the spring , it only has to clear the collets which I can clearly see it dose in the photo . My guess is that the collets are stuck in the tapper which will stop you compressing the spring . As I said you may need to place a socket under the valve head then give the valve cap a slight hit with a hammer to release the collets from the tapper. Not too hard you don't want to bend a valve.
thanks Wayne, the spring does compress no probs but as I tighten the top hat tends to want to wonder around as the lip is not seating properly over the flat washer to secure it snug and stop it moving about...
1. limited success managed to grind the sides off my extractor tool and it came out no probs
2. close up of the top sides ground down to a flat surface to then turn with spanner - worked a treat.
3. then played around with one of the old bolts and ground the sides two sides down on an angle to help locate in the hole but no go. I believe the old snapped bolt has steel hard pressed along the sides particularly at the start of the bolting - hence cannot get a grip to even commence bolting down. to me its almost impossible to do (for me anyway)
4. freeze agent did bugger all, doesn't even look like its freezing really - waste of another $20 for the can. I did put another bolt in to give me a guide for the hole with the snapped bolt when trying to tap a new thread - that didn't work either
5. my honing tool
Have almost given up on this block now, If I can't manage this bolt up front with easy access, the rear one hard up against the firewall is or would be more difficult to undo with limited room.
Just as easy to find a replacement motor not blowing any smoke and fitting a replacement complete engine, will strip all new bits already fitted to this engine for the replacement one.
I am also hoping to leave the box in place with just enough room to pull the engine fwd and up to remove (front cross member is in the way)... more to come...
If the spring is compressing , if you have a small magnet you should be able to use it to lift the collets out , the spring dose not to be compressed very far . I don't like this type of spring compressor dose not allow you to get your fingers to the collets . May help to get a small screw driver between the split between the collets they may be stuck in the grove of the valve stem. I have taken collets out using a socket under the valve head & pushing down on the sprong with an open ended spanner, so what you have should work. If I was in Sydney I would come & help but a bit far from Brisbane
See if you can find a video on using the cylinder hone so you don't take too much out of the cylinders . you need to move the hone up & down in the cylinder while it is rotating so you get cross hatching. We used to use kero to lube the stones , not sure what they use these days. Is there no one near you that could give you a hand.
So I thought I had better start the tear down process for removing the holden 186 in preparation for a replacement one yet to be found...
1. bonnet off pretty easy no tools needed (don't u just love working on the S1)
2. side door off for easy access to cabin (no tools)
3. ripped out the two side floors and the middle hump cover and all the attached bits n pieces
I did make a start on removing the gearbox bolts/nuts which i could access from above. Only a few left which i need to access from below.
Next will be the gearbox mounts, prop and tail shaft to allow box to slide backwards. And the clutch attachment to the chassis.
I should then be able to lift the engine out - cant be too heavy as the head is already off. Will need to get a hand winch to mount of a previously used mount above the garage. Going to leave the head alone now and try to find something suitable holden 186 in reasonable condition that can be bolted straight in.
I would remove at least one front mudguard to make life easier.
Just got of the phone and did a deal for a replacement holden 202 engine. After looking around the usual places gumtree etc and there are lots of holden 6's around, most I came across were sitting ideal somewhere and often when asked people were not aware of the condition of the engine or that they were stored for many years UNTIL i found one fresh still in a car and still running.
I asked and obtained a video of the running engine which appeared to be in good condition and no smoking out the back so did the deal. Its coming in 2-3weeks time due to both of us having other commitments. I am unable to collect due to D4 issues (car is booked in for a turbo fix but both LR indies are 4weeks full) so needed to wait. The supplier is happy to deliver as soon as he removes the engine from the car hopefully in two weeks time. Which then gives me time to remove the remaining block from the LR in preparation for the 'new' engine.
Looked up the specs, the 186 is a 3L and the 202 is 3.3L engine.
Not sure removing a mudguard will help much John, I have good access at the moment but may need to remove the front radiator support though. I want to limit the amount of stuff i need to remove. Gearbox I may just slide backwards to give more room for the engine to come out. The 202 comes with extractors not sure this will fit with the LR but will see when it arrives. I am hoping to just bolt in though little nervous about the dramas i had with the clutch engaging so will need to take care to ensure everything is back together so as not to disturb the clutch mechanism too much. fingers crossed all goes ahead as planned...
Hello Shamirj,Quote:
Originally Posted by shamirj
What colour is the 202: Red, Blue or Black? Any idea what the model of the vehicle is the engine from? I have a couple of Series Land Rovers with 202 fitted. Both are reds. One of the engines has a "Q" very crudely stamped at the front of the engine number. From what I have found after some researching the "Q" meant it the engine was sent over to the Torana production line.
Be careful with the carburettors. It took me a while to work out that a previous owner had fitted a smaller capacity carburettor. Once I worked out what model/year of Holden engine was sourced from I bought a fully re-manufactured carburettor that matched the engine. Thankfully the earlier fuel supply issues went away with the new carburettor fitted.
Kind regards
Lionel
Hello Shamirj,
Since you are taking an engine out and fitting another one, it gives you an opportunity to check out one of the issues of fitting a Holden motor to a Series Land Rover = alignment.
Check out this link. Accessed 18th February 2021, from ... Before Fitting a Holden Engine Check Alignment First
BEFORE FITTING A HOLDEN ENGINE CHECK ALIGMENT FIRST
It might save you some avoidable grief in the future.
Kind regards
Lionel
I believe its a red holden 202 engine, came out of a 1 Tonne ute of some description, as for the carby I also bought a new refurbished one which i will remove and keep as a spare in case the one fitted to the replacement 202 is no good. I have replaced a lot of parts incl spark plugs, leads, water pump, harmonic balancer etc on the current vehicle which i think are all interchangeable with the 202 (mine is a 186). So will probably leave the 202 as is if all working fine and as it should, no need to go replacing bits n pieces if they aint broke.
Will have another read of the alignment but seems a bit out of my depth.
For now will focus on removing the engine once I source a hand winch to assist with the removal of the 186.