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Thread: S1 Holden 186 smoke issues

  1. #61
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    If it was me I would use your original PCV valve & hose & connect to the carby were this fitting was fitted , don't use that bit & replace the filter were the oil filler cap fits with your original filler cap. It looks like he has done away with the PCV system . Some one else may have other ideas. As for the timing cover I would leave it unless the seal is leaking. The motor is running & if it aunt broke don't touch it , you don't need any more trouble. That is my tilt on it.

  2. #62
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    little more done

    1. removed the clutch and pressure plate, seems like an oil leak somewhere from above perhaps the rocker cover gasket

    2. clutch and pressure plate removed, that timing starter ring gear in the rear looks a little smaller to me compared to my 186 - must measure the pair should be the same size really

    3. untouched and amazed at how clean this rocker cover underside is, repeat i did not clean this, straight off the engine - WOW

    4. that looks to me like a newish gasket and is very good condition for an old engine, all looking pretty damn good to me

    5. rocker cover bolts brackets painted up they were an odd red colour, will leave the rocker cover bare

    6. side valve covers both painted up allowing to dry.

    will prob use my 186 inlet manifold and my new carby, i did remove the distributor and took some measurements of its exact location so when replacing all goes where it should. overall seems like a much cleaner engine, the seller also stated the oil looked clean, filter is newish as well. impressed so far. just need to duck out and get some more red engine paint
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  3. #63
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    Homestar is offline Super Moderator & CA manager Subscriber
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    Yes, rocker cover is leaking - those aftermarket rocker covers are terrible for leaks - use some RTV on the gasket (sparingly) to help but I'd try and use a factory version myself if you want to keep it leak free long term. I don't generality use or recommend RTV but in this application, it will help. If the flywheel, etc is not correct, put the one from the old engine on. It needs a new clutch and pressure plate anyway from that pic.

    Hope you have it all together soon.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  4. #64
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    small update

    1. managed to remove and refit my old 186 rocker cover instead of the newer 202 one, maybe a better seal perhaps being the original. will prob try and sell the newer 202 one off. also the painted valve covers went on, will prob give it another paint to match the rocker cover to the freshly painted valve covers (side)

    2. interesting observation with the spark plugs - the 202 is the one on the left, the 186 on the right, though they both fit the same block, the spanner needed for both are diff sizes and the shank is different in length where its threaded
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  5. #65
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    more updates

    small things completed today slowly progressing, looking at buying a 2nd hand engine hoist to use and then sell on

    1. took off the coil noticed it needs a resistor which is fitted to the side, cleaned up to refit and now forgot but seems like the cable from the resistor goes to the positive, leaving the negative cable going to the starter which seems wrong to me. shouldn't the positive cable go to my starter/battery like i had done on the 186 or should i just connect the resistor to the negative? should off taken more notice when removing the cable.

    2. removed the spark plugs, plugged the holes with some older spark plugs painted red, then refitted the old spark plugs which came with the 202. mid section done for now and the top rear got a lick of red paint.

    3. the noose put around the old 186 prepping for removal, this was the rope used when we lowered the 202 from the back of the ute and held so thought to use again.

    removed the remaining 2-3 nuts for the gearbox - done, removed and marked the clutch shaft - done, tied up the exhaust out of the way - done, need to remove gearbox two mounting bolts, can i slide the gearbox on the prop and tail shafts without removing otherwise will need to remove the two shafts as well.

    cant wait to drop the engine in and start reconnecting things up and starting her up again without SMOKE.

    Q1. if I removed the distributor as i have, will this disturb the timing ?
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    Last edited by shamirj; 1st April 2021 at 11:45 AM. Reason: update
    Land Rover

  6. #66
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    Coil should be wired as follows.

    Negative - to Distributor

    Positive from ignition - through resistor to the coil then another wire from the positive to the crank wire on the starter. This then gives you a full 12 volts on the coil when cranking which gives a better spark, then drops back to the voltage through the resistor once the engine is running.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  7. #67
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    new update

    so after spending 9days in Darwin with a Xtrail Nissan 2wd as a hire car we went from Darwin to Kakadu NP then to Katherine onto litchfield NP then Darwin and home to Sydney. 2200kms in 9days, impressions of the Xtrail comfortable front seats, very smooth through the gears but a crap reversing camera (quality) compared to the D4 and our Hyundai i30.

    1. time to get this S1 into action, still looking around for a cheap 2nd hand engine hoist, so placed some manifold gasket glue for the manifold then fitted both inlet/outlet manifolds into position and tightened up - hopefully no exhaust leaks from the manifold this time round, carby attached

    2. connected the two hoses, someone a long time ago said didn't matter which way round these hoses go as they cool the manifold, hope they are right!

    3. bottom half painted then onto the distributor which i had to remove, hopefully my timing has not been affected? spark plugs and leads all connected up. was on a roll today

    4. decided to throw on the starter motor as well while i was in that area

    5. finally the front fan pulley, job done.

    also removed the gearbox mounting bolts to the chassis, just needs the front and rear shafts removed so that i can slide the box backwards once i secure a engine hoist. starting to get excited again, cannot wait...
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  8. #68
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    bit more done today

    1. this gearbox has to come out, so removing the tailshaft nuts on the hand brake drum

    2. was only going to remove one end, but could not slide the shaft back so took it out completely

    3. gearbox and engine parting ways, happy to have them apart for now

    4. took up some of the weight with a piece of timber for the box, took off the two gearbox mounts as well to make life easier

    5. gearbox mounts removed. so now just need that damn hoist to lift the engine out.

    local hire shop wanted $100 per day for the engine hoist, can buy 2nd hand for $150. SCA had a sale on them for $188 gone back up to $266 approx. All the cheaper ones are too far to collect, waiting for something more local. thats is for today
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  9. #69
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    engine hoist time

    just by chance SCA had a sale for the engine hoist i was after so did an online order for pick and collect at the store

    1. unboxing the hoist came in two boxes not overly heavy but easier to carry with two people

    2. finger tightened all bolts and secured into position

    3. lowered boom to secure rope to the chain and begin the lift

    4. In its full stretch position it can only lift 250kg which made the rear end of the hoist rise, so will need to peg the boom back one hole to 500kg and see if that is more suitable. cannot wait, cannot believe got this hoist today, will grab a few family members to help with lifting out as soon as i can, possibly on the w/end.
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  10. #70
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    Joe , they will tilt forward onto the front & middle set of wheels when lifting even if you move the hoist extension back onto either the other holes , the rear wheels are only for moving the hoist around when not lifting & with the front arms folded up in air.

    As can be seen in this photo with hoist folded on rights-l1600 (6).jpg

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