I just saw a comment saying holden parts are cheap. You may want to update your experience of how much holden red motor parts cost. A VRS set is 3 times the cost of the 2.25l land rover VRS set. A fuel pump for a holden 6 costs $100 for the cheap garbage, $300 for a good quality one.
The days of the holden 6 being a good conversion were in the 1970s when you could buy a high quality rebuilt unit from your local repco for a couple of hundred dollars. Good luck even finding a holden red motor part in your local repco now. I had to scour wrecking yards all over Melbourne last year to find a distributor drive gear.
As for the driving experience. I guess if you love redlining a ~3 litre 6 cylinder engine to keep up with traffic, constantly worrying about overheating, and enjoy tinnitus they're probably great.
There's no good reason to install one in a land rover.
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
Yeah - I've a spreadsheet managing these projects. I've costed up a worst case on the red engine as well as the rebuild on the 2.25. None of this is "cheap". I can do quite a bit on my own so it's not going to bankrupt me. I'm confident I'll end up with some nice trucks at the end of this adventure. And trucks that have been saved from the crusher too.
I will pop the Holden in, even if it just end up being for the experience of having done it. I have a complete spare red engine and a pile of parts to sort through. Might all be junk but it does seem as though I have enough bits to keep the things running well for a while, albeit after a lot of work.
Via this thread I have eyes on a Rover 6 so the plan may change.
Red lining to not even close to keep up with traffic, over heating and excessive noise are the core problems with the truck now. I'm hopeful putting the two engines into their seemingly better matched bodies will sort a little of this out.
I guess we'll find out...
I'll do a quick freshen up first. Carb and fuel pump rebuild. Clean up. New points, plugs, condenser, leads, coil etc. Compression test is not too bad. A little low on a few cylinders as you'd expect, but she'll pull.
If the thing seems to be a good option going forward I've gone through options for new head, extractors, electronic ignition, intake manifold, webber and engineering. I could spend hundreds, or many thousands, depending on where I wanted to end up. But it's not a race car, so I don't need to get carried away. Just running to best capacity for an old truck.
A diff upgrade to either 3.54 or 4.1, plus a Roamerdrive will enhance the driving experience, and if set up properly they wont run hot.
Plenty of distributor drive gears available on E-Bay in either Nylon or Metal, Crow Cams also have them.
MSD/Holley have a huge range of dizzy drive gears for just about any make, Holden, Chev, Ford, Chrysler, VW, etc.
I find our local Bursons Auto Parts good for any Holden straight six parts, if not in stock, available overnight.
Rare Spares are another outlet that have a lot of bits and pieces.
Cheers, Mick.
1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
1971 S2A 88
1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
1972 S3 88 x 2
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
REMLR 88
1969 BSA Bantam B175
Diff upgrade sounds like a good thing to add to the plan. And yeah there seems to be a lot of Holden original and after market parts around.
I have a Fairey overdrive attached to the truck now. The missing shifter and linkages just arrived from the UK so I'll pull that off and see what's happening inside and hopefully reinstate that this weekend.
It was really wet in Hobart yesterday So I wan't able to dig into these as I had hoped. Did some other work on the running truck though.
Here's what I'm dealing with...
First truck - 6 Cylinder body with 2.25 engine. You can see where the chassis engine mounts have eaten into the steel adaptors. I think the geometry is off. Reverse hit the dash and get pushed out from not connecting properly. Third I can fit my hand between the stick and the dash. The red 4 wheel drive shifter is hard up against the panel and can jump into neutral.
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Second truck - 4 cylinder (actually originally a diesel) with a Holden. Discovered it's a 161 not a 186 as I was told. I have a few other engines in this family.
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Sorry red high/low ratio shifter. Monday brain.
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