Manual tailgate release D3

Just repaired mine with the allan key set-up, many thanks to the people who have posted on this.

I found I couldn't get my hands in enough to slot the lock with the screwdriver, so I popped the plastic cover off the end where the cable enters the locking mechanism, and was able to get 1 finger inside and feel the cable and pull it out the bottom, then get some long nose pliers and bingo..took about 1 minute when i decided to go that way.

I just cant help but wonder if that set-up is designed so it does fail and you need to buy a new latching set-up

Thanks again for the helpful posts.

Cheers Ean

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Originally Posted by bbyer

Re-clipping the C shaped spring metal clip back into the two little slots that it resides in was not all that easy. I later decided that with practice, it would not be that difficult. The main concern was not to loose the spring clips as that is what they did - spring.

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The clips need not be removed at all, just slid towards the cable as far as they will go after which the socket is free to be lifted off the ball.

Just a variation. I drilled the locking mechanism, have seen photos on the Disco.UK site I think, rather than the allen key approach. Ran the cable to the bottom of the tailgate, right hand side, drilled a hole there right at the bottom edge of the plastic carpeted cover. BTW I ran the cable under the foam covering that is glued to the tailgate. I then drilled a small hole, enough for the cable into the plastic which covers the inside of the tailgate. The hole and wire are hidden under the plastic flip up cover so it's out of the way.

The cable is run all the way to the back opf the second row seats, under the covering which sits next to the third row seats on the right side of the rig.

A couple points worth mentioning. Not difficult to run the cable under the carpeted trim, but the trick was using a bungy cord, wrapped around the metal mechanism which holds the seat bottom realease for the third row seats and then tieing it back to the steel cable, under the carpeted trim. The reason for this is so that the cable is pulled back into the cavity and not alowed to bend the slack down into the tailgate seal (when it shuts), effectively immobilizing the emergency release. I used a butterfly knot directly on the cable as the clip in point for the bungy cord. Also note not to have too much tension or you could end up releasing the mechanism/lock accidently.

Anyway its another, what sounds like more complicated, approach allowing a cargo barrier to be in place and a load of gear. I'll have to take a photo at some point, at least of the locations of the cable. I'm afraid I have locked down the tie down bolts with lock-tight so they dont slip and would have to get to the shop to get more to un-do the bolts and barrier.

Cheers

Thanks for all the posts re the tailgate failure. Just happened to me 8 hours before we are leaving for Fraser Island. Will be in Brisbane next, is there anyone there who can help me fix this bastard?
Thanks,
Hamma

Can be available Sunday 2nd December at Holland Park Brisbane if you still need assistance I think I can remember how to do it the hard part is getting the lining off and releasing the catch

gdub

Gdub, thanks but got off the island today and a local fixed it with me in Rainbow Beach. Used silver solder to lock the cable back in. So that's fine, problem now is that the towball fell out of the back of the car as I was towing the caravan at 80kph down a hill. That was a bit of fun...not really. Need a new towball hitch now!!! Any idea best place in Brisbane to get one? Might try a wreckers first?
Hamma

Does anyone know,is the D4 an improved set up?

Don't seem to hear of any D4s that have tailgate release failures.

Mine has a cargo barrier in all the time so a little concerned.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by peterall

Since fitting Black Widow drawers and a cargo barrier I have been worried about the lower tailgate release cable retainer clip breaking as has happened to many others. Other posters have described how to get the gate open from inside the D3 but a cargo barrier and drawers make this impossible.
I have now fitted a manual release (thanks to advise from garryc) so these steps may help others. I used some fine multi strand stainless steel fishing line leader and suitable crimp ferrules.
1. Remove lower tailgate top plastic cover (4 screws & 4 clips)
2. Remove both tailgate support cables.
3. Remove the carpeted backing cover.
4. Remove actuator electic connector and remove actuator (2 screws see pic 1 & 2)
5. Thread the cable under the actuator, loop it around and through the plastic retaining clip (this is the one that breaks) and secure with a ferrule. (see pic 3)
6. Feed the cable through the tailgate to the right and refit the acuator.
7. Drill a suitable hole in the RHS of the carpeted backing and thread your cable through.
8. Refit the carpeted backing cover.
At this point if you do not have drawers, simply form a loop in the cable end with a ferrule and secure it with tape or a small screw to the upper section of the carpeted cover until it is needed.
In my case, I drilled a small hole in the drawer surround (pic 4)and continued the cable through to the cargo barrier and secured the end there with a rubber band. (see pic 5)
A small tug on the cable, while someone lifts the upper tailgate is all that is needed.:)

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i have been reading about this failure of the opening mechansim on the rear door .........I have a 2011 D4 and not sure if its still an issue ....but as I have installed a set of Drawers and in the event of failure it would now be impossible to get into the lower rear tailgate to release manually .....

so i am thinking of doing the manual release mod i have read about on this forum .......BUT .....i look at the carpet covered panel covering the rear lower tailgate and have no idea how it is supposed to be removed .....

there are what appears to be 4 covered screws on the out side ( pic attached ) .....do i prise these off and are there screws to undo under .....and then do i prize the panel out from under the black trim ........it is relativly easy to get in back in place

I dont want to in plough untill I know what im doing and do a lot of unneccessary damage ,,,,,,so any advice apprecaited

The link below is to an album within which are a number of pictures.

I note now that most of the jpg's show about 600+ views so I guess some regard the pictures as helpful.

I presume a D4 tailgate is still much the same as a 2005 LR3 so yes, you remove the little black caps, undo the screws underneath and then detach the wind up cables so you can remove the black plastic end surrounds as well as the top black plastic cover.

One requirement is to have a stool or similar of an appropriate height to support the tail gate and some coats to use as cushions between the paint and the stool as once the cables are removed, there is nothing to support the tailgate. Well there is the bumper but ....

Also have some clamps of some sort to keep the cables from winding back up into the reel. I do not know what happens if they do but it is a fuss you do not need. I used a couple of those thumb screw type bleeder hose clamp offs.

And be careful when you are cutting into the dust seal - there are electrical wires just underneath - well there was with my 3.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Liftgate release mod

Thanks Bbyer ....makes it look a bit less daunting

to undo the windup cables i assume you unscrew the nuts and they come out (but clamp them first to stop them reunning back into the mechanism as you point out )

In picture 6 of your attached pics ....it shows the gold acctuator mechanism (before removal ) underneight what appears some metal moulding in the tail gate ....when you undo the screws is it easy to remove .....and do you need to unplug any wiring from it

Thanks for the tip on being careful in cutting the membrane...............it appears i cut it more to the right hand side (as i look down at it) .....as that is where the acctuator is located .....to the right hand side ??? ........also I just duct tape over the cut when finished ...right ??

Like all good surgeons its a good idea to have some knoweledge of the anatomy of the patient before starting to operate ......so I really appreciate your help