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Thread: Manual tailgate release D3

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    Manual tailgate release D3

    Since fitting Black Widow drawers and a cargo barrier I have been worried about the lower tailgate release cable retainer clip breaking as has happened to many others. Other posters have described how to get the gate open from inside the D3 but a cargo barrier and drawers make this impossible.
    I have now fitted a manual release (thanks to advise from garryc) so these steps may help others. I used some fine multi strand stainless steel fishing line leader and suitable crimp ferrules.
    1. Remove lower tailgate top plastic cover (4 screws & 4 clips)
    2. Remove both tailgate support cables.
    3. Remove the carpeted backing cover.
    4. Remove actuator electic connector and remove actuator (2 screws see pic 1 & 2)
    5. Thread the cable under the actuator, loop it around and through the plastic retaining clip (this is the one that breaks) and secure with a ferrule. (see pic 3)
    6. Feed the cable through the tailgate to the right and refit the acuator.
    7. Drill a suitable hole in the RHS of the carpeted backing and thread your cable through.
    8. Refit the carpeted backing cover.
    At this point if you do not have drawers, simply form a loop in the cable end with a ferrule and secure it with tape or a small screw to the upper section of the carpeted cover until it is needed.
    In my case, I drilled a small hole in the drawer surround (pic 4)and continued the cable through to the cargo barrier and secured the end there with a rubber band. (see pic 5)
    A small tug on the cable, while someone lifts the upper tailgate is all that is needed.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
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    This post was a lifesaver for me! I just experienced my first D3 failure, of the electric latches on the tailgate. It failed when closed and just made a whirring noise. I looked at Disco3.co.uk site and found many hilarious stories of similar situations to mine ("if one of my designers came to me with this, he would be put on toilet cleaning duties for a week!"), because it really is a bugger when it fails closed. You have to tear the inner tailgate apart, ignoring the considerable damage caused, to get to the workings described in this post. Once inside, I was aghast to find the words, "Made in Canada", and "FoMoCo" on the mechanism. To think the makers of the Space Shuttle manouvering arm could produce such a piece of **** was unbearable to an ex-pat. The lack of a manual override is also inexcusable... So I made sure I included one as described in this post for the next time, thanks!

  3. #3
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    where every one holidays, sunny coast
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    its a very good idea as iv done countless door actuators, and do the hole lot from inside with out breaking a thing, the old way was to drill a big hole to fit your hand in and get to the cable, but theres another way

    anyway, if i was to put that cable on id actually splice it to the cable, not just loop it round as that is were it breaks at the 90' bend and it is often just floating about in the tailgate

  4. #4
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    Please tell us, O Stig master, what is this "other way" of which you speak? (and is it "the way" or just "a way"?, with apologies to Siddhartha's Buddhist journeys)

  5. #5
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    I would have to agree with Stig.
    In this case if the cable was to break & you had this set up it would do nothing apart from pull the solenoid inwards. (cable is detached from solenoid)
    It tends to break about an inch away from the solenoid end & leaves 2 ends of the freyed cable adrift in the tail gate area.
    What you would need to do is splice into the cable at the other end before the cable heads into the sheath, that way if it breaks where it normally does you are tugging the cable that goes to release the latch.
    It will work now because you have a connection with the cable, but when the cable breaks it wont do anything.

    HTH.

    When i first read the article, i didnt take any real notice as i didnt have a newer Disco at the time & thought what a great idea. Good on someone to take some preventative action to stop what could be a real pain the preverbial.

    Cheers all.

  6. #6
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    Sniegy, does the D4 have a better or improved tailgate release?

  7. #7
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    Andyrover,
    I dont think they have done anything to the release mechanism, it looks the same so would assume it is the same!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by andyrover View Post
    This post was a lifesaver for me! I just experienced my first D3 failure, of the electric latches on the tailgate. It failed when closed and just made a whirring noise. I looked at Disco3.co.uk site and found many hilarious stories of similar situations to mine ("if one of my designers came to me with this, he would be put on toilet cleaning duties for a week!"), because it really is a bugger when it fails closed. You have to tear the inner tailgate apart, ignoring the considerable damage caused, to get to the workings described in this post. Once inside, I was aghast to find the words, "Made in Canada", and "FoMoCo" on the mechanism. To think the makers of the Space Shuttle manouvering arm could produce such a piece of **** was unbearable to an ex-pat. The lack of a manual override is also inexcusable... So I made sure I included one as described in this post for the next time, thanks!
    FoMoCo is the key word here Had 2 EA Falcons over 7 years(lease thankfully) Had more than just a latch broken. Think any part of the vehicle

  9. #9
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    Jan 2010
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    Edmonton Alberta Canada
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    Made in Canada, I am distressed!

    Quote Originally Posted by andyrover View Post
    Once inside, I was aghast to find the words, "Made in Canada", and "FoMoCo" on the mechanism. To think the makers of the Space Shuttle manoeuvring arm could produce such a piece of **** was unbearable to an ex-pat. The lack of a manual override is also inexcusable... So I made sure I included one as described in this post for the next time, thanks!
    When I took the lower door apart to install my version of a manual release, I did not pay any attention to where the gold thing was made. It looked nice and was not corroded, but ... Made in Canada, that is nothing to be proud of.

    Anyway, per the disco3 gallery link below, are a number of pictures and commentary showing my version of a manual release. About the only real difference is that I tied my release wire to the cable and had the wire rope exit thru the door carpet. The attachment method is not the best - a lead fishing weight squished to the cables, and I have since found a small U clamp sort of thing taken from a broken electrical circuit breaker but have not installed such as will wait until I actually have to use the release to get back in and redo the tie.

    DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Liftgate release mod

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
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    My cable broke for the second time over the W/E while we were away.
    First time fixed by the stealer but this time fixed it myself.
    It broke at the end on the 90 degree bend as per normal.
    I used a old allen key and a electrical connector to make sure it can't happen again!
    I'll post some pics of my fix.

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