Is it necessary to fit a battery tray - I have seen a few floating around for the D3 and I didn't think one was needed and hence people are making money from accessories that are superfluous :eek:
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Is it necessary to fit a battery tray - I have seen a few floating around for the D3 and I didn't think one was needed and hence people are making money from accessories that are superfluous :eek:
I fitted my Deka Intimidator (an AGM 55AH) second battery from the D3 to the RRS last weekend. I used the 'second' battery compartment and moved the existing modules (but they're all still under the plastic cover). I ditched the large plastic cover for the TCM ( it's completely open at the bottom, so not sealed) and used an instrument environment-protection bag that I had (originally available from Radio Spares) to seal it. I had to dremel out the small plastic fins on the front bottom of the compartment, but after that the battery fitted, terminals and all.
The original Traxide kit was then wired in as per the D3. The only real problem is that the RRS doesn't have as much room under the plastic door-sill covers and the thickness of the wiring loom makes refitting them rather difficult.
On the D3, this setup allowed me to run the Waeco 40L car fridge for at least 12hrs at a time (didn't have the opportunity to let it run further without starting the engine).
Cheers,
Gordon
Trobbo,
If you intend to fit the battery in front of the OEM existing one, then yes you will need a "Battery Tray". But as said you will also have to make some type of enclosure as the heat will kill the battery.:(
If you intend to fit the battery in the Brake booster box on the drivers side, then no, as you can secure the battery (& a perfect fit using the LR factory bracket & bolts is the D34 Optima) using the brackets & threaded holes already there.:)
If u have a D4 then some moving of componentry is required. Also i think u have to dremel down a small section in the front of the Brake booster box.
Cheers
Hi Guys, I have some pricing for you for the second battery to my D4.
The D34 Optima battery was $363.64.
The balance was $723.00 which was for the following: -
Duel Battery Isonlator Redarc
Circuit protection, fuses holders etc
Cable & insulation
Marine socket
Labour 4-6 hours
They included fuses for my DVD players as well.
I have a photo of the redarc set up
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1271308541
Not a cheap excercise, but you only do it once
Cheers
I've now completed this to my D4.
Thanks to Disco4SE, drivesafe and others for the photos & info in this and other threads related to this exercise.
Used an Optima D34 battery. Thanks to drivesafe for putting me onto the cheapest supplier I could find: Batteries Direct. They have a web site. Delivered overnight to my door.
As an aside: reading the documentation that came with the D34, it mentions that the side terminals on a D34/78 shall only be used for starting/cranking applications and NOT for deep cycle. The top terminals canbe used for both applications. It doesn't say why!?!
Used a Traxide D3 full power kit. Great bit of gear & the service/response/help from drivesafe was terrific. Thanks Tim. Highly recommended.
Anyways, I needed to get that off my chest as I am absolutely chuffed with the result - cold beer a certainty on my camping trips!
Thanks & cheers,
Marc...
Hi Marc, glad you are happy with your set up. As mentioned, it does cost a few $ to set up, but well worth it. I have the kids DVD players connected to the second battery as well. They can leave them on and I dont have to worry about the main battery........plus no screams from the back seat when I turn the car off.
Cheers, Craig
I have recently had the same job done by a well-recommended auto electrician here in Albany: Optima D34, full Traxide kit, standard LR clamp, moving various bits around (basically as described by Craig). All worked fine as far as I can tell. I too had other work done at the same time (fitted a GME 3340) so again a bit hard to work out cost, but best I can see is similar to above.
I'm interested in the use of the Redarc isolator - at this point I've not fitted one (due to info from sparky that it should not be required so long as all accessories were running off second battery), but this has niggled at me ever since. Taking the bus in this week to get an Anderson plug fitted and a couple of extra plugs down the back, and am wondering about adding an isolator to the mix? I'll freely admit to being a complete dinosaur with electrical stuff...
Hi Everyone,
This is my first post and I am new to a lot of this stuff so I’m sorry if I’m asking stupid questions!
I like many others am trying to fit a second battery into a Disco 4, and it seem like the best place is in the aux battery tray. If I can get the space in for the battery I plan on fitting the Traxide Disco 3 kit. I’m not really prepared to move the electronics around myself as I’ll probably stuff something up. I’ve rang a couple of Land Rover dealers in Melbourne and they say it can’t be done and they aren’t prepared to help me fit the battery in. The best answer I could get was from Melbourne City Land Rover who said to put the battery into the boot compartment where the towbar goes.
The question is does anyone know of anyone in Melbourne who can clear the aux battery tray for me without it affecting the car warranty?
Peter
I’m with Sniegy about the auxiliary battery being mounted in front of the cranking battery, but I have had a fair bit of feedback from different people who have mounted the battery there and so far they have had no problems.
While this is way to soon to see there is going to be a problem, a number of people have gone as far as measuring the temps and they seem to be not much higher than normal so I’m about to experiment with my D4 ( my wife’s ) and I’ll see what I come up with.
The point is, if you're plan to operate a winch using two batteries, this would be a perfect set up location for the second battery.