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Hi Norm,
Glad to hear you have the new auto fitted. I had to fork out a similar amount from my own pocket for my D3 late last year:(, but I still reckon they are the best around and a gem to drive. Can't believe the difference the recon. box has made to the car.:)
John
Well after my original post, l had the auto service by a local auto trans mob, and all good for around 6 months.
Still starting to do the same thing again, so have it booked at LR Dealership to hopefully fix the issue once and for all.
I now have 169,000kms on the clock, so the usual 160k Landie Syndrom is kicking in.
I have made few more posts on the D3 since.
I have just replaced front and rear diff centres, and hand brake acuator.
A cool $4,600.00 later, those three items have been replaced.
No l have also a power surge under load.
About 100rpm variation, which is anoying to say the least.
So the lm going to leave the D3 with the Dealership, give them a list of issues, and just go from there.
May need a stiff drink after l pay the bill.
Really though, the car is just plain awsome, and you have to expect issues when the car gets a few k's up on it.
But the pocket is certainly lighter:angel::(
Yes mate, the very one. He for some reason gave it to Automatic Transmissions R Us, in Osborne Park. They are around the corner from Barbagello's and he said they do heaps of work for them and are an Allianz preferred repairer.
Norm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomad9
Have a 2005 D3 & should have joined this site years ago. Seems I am having the same probs as everyone else. As per LR had not done any servicing on the trans till about 12 months ago (200k) after shuddering started. Had a service done and steel pan fitted then, but now 20k later the problem is back worse than ever. Maybe time for an expensive rebuild?? Have done a bit of towing with a car on a trailer, could this expediate the symptons?? Have read somewhere about Ford saying something with relation to this and cruise control??
Hi Norm, Great to hear that the disco is back to it's finest. I must concur that cameron at auto trans R us really does know his stuff. I spoke to him before getting the service done at automac, reason being same service $800.00 cheaper at automac:confused:, so yes he knows his stuff but also knows how to charge for it.
Stilll not to many things in life more pleasurable than a smooth running disco:D.
Norm, the alliance insurance, where did you obtain that and can people get it at anytime in the life of the vehicle?
cheers mate
G'day Nomad,
I got the Allianz insurance through Meaghan at Platinum Direct. If you do a search for "extended warranty" then you should be able to find the thread and her contact details. There was another bloke in QLD from memory (Meaghan is in Sydney) but at the time I was looking, he could not help me.
I believe that the warranty can be purchased even after the original manufacturers warranty has expired (I know mine was), but my memory is telling me it has to be before the car does 100,000 km. You will have to check that out though...
I didn't ask the price of the steel pan conversion from Cameron, are you saying he charges $800 more than the guys at Myaree? That would make it a $1200 transmission service??? Holy gods....
Anyway, like I said, its all good now. If you are SOR then maybe we can catch up one weekend and go for a drive..?
Norm
Quote:
Originally Posted by NomadicD3
Does anyone have the ZF part number for the steel transmission pan conversion kit for the 3 with the 4.4l V8? I have 125,000 km on my LR3 now so think I should quit stalling re changing the oil. There was some discussion about doing that at about 80K, but I since all was OK, (and still is), I was somewhat apprehensive. My real concern was that the dealer was as well. They had the week previous, changed transmission oil on an LR2 and it had not gone well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomad9
I intend to keep my 3 for quite awhile yet, so it sounds like installing the metal pan kit and associated filter is a worthwhile long term strategy. I find that it is usually best to know a bit about what one wants done before approaching the dealer on a subject.
Same one no matter what the engine.
ZF number:
Complete kit, sump filtre, gasket and bolts.
1068 103 820 01 Kit Sump
I am just trying to get straight in my own mind the reason for replacing the plastic transmission pan and installing the metal one.
I gather that to remove the plastic pan, one has to lift the engine/tranny a couple of inches to clear the vertical nipple that relates to the built in oil filter "glued" to the plastic pan. The alternative to lifting the engine/tranny is to break off the "nipple" and then the plastic pan will slide out? Am I correct?
Once one has the plastic pan off, then one installs a separate oil filter and then bolts the replacement metal pan back on using a new gasket and 21 new shorter M6 x 22.5 torx cap screws as the metal pan is thinner than the plastic one.
Then next time when one wants to change the oil filter, all one has to do is drain the tranny oil, remove the metal oil pan, replace the old oil filter with a new one, install a new oil pan gasket and reinstall the metal pan and add oil - in other words, what one normally has to do with no special "secret" techniques.
One jpg below shows the separate oil filter, the other the combined plastic pan and built in oil filter, (what we already have), and the pdf has some actual photos of the ZF 6HPxx internals.
Hi bbyer,
When I changed mine from plastic pan to metal pan in the end it was an easy job, well relatively. All you have to do is release all the original bolting, lower the plastic pan as much as you can and give the pan a few sharp movements North / South, you'll feel the plastic tube break. Then a bit of a juggling act and the old plastic pan comes out. Remove the old filter neck from within the gearbox workings, install the new filter, make sure the gasket faces are clean and slip the new steel pan into place. Put a couple of easy to get at bolts in place to hold the pan in place and then put all the other bolts in before you tighten any up. I tightened mine up from the middle out, the ones around the cross member are a bit tight and require some patience.
You MUST top up the gearbox oil according to the LR procedure, and the temperature of the oil is important when checking the level. I filled mine up as best I could then went for a drive, checked the sump temp with an infra red temp gun and topped the oil up at 45 degrees C I think it was. Since then mines be fine. Good luck, the chnage is worth it.