Yes, the Y is a good idea but...
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Blknight.aus
skip the VOSS stuff, festo, wabco and bendix make exactly what you need to T in the way that you want to.
you might want to consider the Y or parallel joiners if you're going to route the hoses anywhere because they let you anchor the hoses to each other and they take up a lot less space.
Your thoughts re using a Y, (or parallel) instead of a T are very good. The reality is that I already did obtain some conventional machinery type design Y shaped push in fittings as they do make paralleling the lines so much easier.
After getting the Y fittings, I realized that in theory, I have a bigger concern than just running the lines. It occurred to me that a fitting failure would likely appear as a tyre blowout.
I then recalled the fuss here in North America with the Firestone tyres installed on Ford SUV's and the lawsuits that resulted. As such, I decided that I best install either DOT fittings or fittings that are already on the Land Rover, (in otherwords Voss or John Guest.) I purchased a John Guest brand union from Land Rover, (part number STC8580), and looked at it. It was manufactured of composite material and internally, the 4mm OD tube support was there, (as with all DOT and most TUV accepted fittings). This therefore got me to looking for DOT fittings and since DOT Y fittings are not made, (well cannot find any), then I had to discard the Y idea.
This then got me to looking at how tight I could bend the 6mm DIN spec tubing. It is fairly rigid stuff so I took a heat gun to a length and discovered that with not too much heat, I could put a perhaps 6" (150mm) or somewhat tighter radius bend in the tubing with very little apparent internal distortion. As such, installing T fittings and paralleling the lines is a bit more practical.
I might add that here in Canada, finding Metric DOT Push In fittings is not that easy. In Australia, you have it a lot easier in that General Pneumatics, Products - General Pneumatics Pty Ltd appears to have a good stock of the DOT metric stuff; also I now have found out that I can obtain their products thru their agent here in Canada.
Actually it is a disguised Canadian website.
Thanks for the link. I see that the Altecare link is actually based in Eastern Canada, (Ontario), but they sort of obscure that, ( big Stars and Stripes flag displayed), as no matter how good your product, it is not so easy for "foreigners" to sell into the States.
I note your comment re heat and destroying the integrity of the tubing. I have run my lines inside that black flexible plastic wire wrap, (wiring loom), that the vehicle manufacturerers for the most part, now use to protect their cable bundles in an attempt to reduce chaffing and heat tranfer from where ever and what ever.
Actually here, the other concern is cold. What one does not want is a line trying to flex at -45C.
I sort of assumed the reaction to a rapid release of an air fitting or line rupture between the air spring and valve block would seem like a tyre blowout - and fixing that sort of failure outside at -45C is really not fun.
Need some help with this mod
Hi guys,
I'm new to this site and was excited to see that there was a thread that addressed my current issue with my 3. I was wondering why you would install at each corner. Wouldn't you be able to install one T after the front and rear value blocks? Wouldn't this fill the ends equally and if there was a failure the end would drop not just one corner? Also I am in Nova Scotia Canada can someone please provide a link to a Canadian retailer? Thanks!
fittings for 6mm tubing to schrader valve
Quote:
Originally Posted by
cjc_td5
Also, if you could open the valve block and then filled each end, and left each side effectively with an open connection between the two sides, when you went into a corner, wouldn't the outer side compress and transfer air to the inner side which would then lift? This would set up some insane body roll and be extremely unstable. You need to isolate each wheel running a manual air-up system (i.e. computer bypassed).
Chris
Thanks Chris, your comments about the body roll make perfect sense. Independent connections to each side is the way to go. I understand the pieces needed to tee into the line after the value block; however, I need some help connecting the 6mm line coming off the bottom of the tee to a Schrader valve. Would you need a straight 6mm to 1/4 connector to match up to the Schrader valve? Does someone have a diagram with listed components? Thanks!
