Warning Steering Column locked...

I think if it happened while driving I would be a little nervous. Maybe the instrument ecu update might fix this though?

Mine did it again today failing to start 1 out of 4 attempts. I’ve left the plastic shroud off the column for now so I can tap it with the screwdriver left in my centre console.

So far this works with light tapping and almost immediately after the issue occurs - meaning no reset time.

Need to get some sili spray in there somehow!

Does the column remain physically locked? E.g. you can’t move the steering wheel? Wondering if it’s the actuation cam or the Hall effect sensor playing up

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Originally Posted by Disco4TT3

I think if it happened while driving I would be a little nervous. Maybe the instrument ecu update might fix this though?

Mine did it again today failing to start 1 out of 4 attempts. I’ve left the plastic shroud off the column for now so I can tap it with the screwdriver left in my centre console.

So far this works with light tapping and almost immediately after the issue occurs - meaning no reset time.

Need to get some sili spray in there somehow!

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I think I would use Teflon spray rather than silicone spray. The silicone spray will pick up dust/grit and would probably cause even more interfence than you have already.

David

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Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

Does the column remain physically locked? E.g. you can’t move the steering wheel? Wondering if it’s the actuation cam or the Hall effect sensor playing up

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So sometimes the steering is not locked when the message appears and when I rock it, it locks. Other times it’s locked. In both of these cases I have to tap the column to hear the the little actuator operate and the engine starts.

I don’t hear any issue when the actuator is operating though. ie it doesn’t sound like it’s struggling to move, etc.

I found a vid of a guy pulling apart an older rangie column and removing the security bolts to expose the lock mech and explaining that for him, the issue was the solenoid.

I’m really quite disappointed at this ‘throw-away’ mentality of many car companies. My secondary turbo waste gate actuator was sticking because it was clogged with carbon and the recommenced fix was to replace an otherwise perfect turbo!

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Originally Posted by Odysseyman

I think I would use Teflon spray rather than silicone spray. The silicone spray will pick up dust/grit and would probably cause even more interfence than you have already.

David

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Good call. I hadn’t heard about that as a spray. I was thinking of using some graphite also.

If it has the same type of security bolts , use a dremel or hack saw blade to cut a slot for a flat blade screw driver.

There is/was a "how to" video on You tube about a bloke who drilled a hole in his L322 steering column to allow him to spray CRC into the hole and free the lock. alternative was a new steering column.

YouTube

Regards Philip A

Great vid Phillip A! I hadn’t found that one - probably because I was looking for D4. But that gave good insight.

Yep, looks like I’ll need to bite the bullet and pull the column out to take a look. The workshop manual I posted earlier will be useful.

Thanks loanrangie too. I’ll post back if the D4 ones are threadless like shown in the vid for the 322.

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Originally Posted by Disco4TT3

Good call. I hadn’t heard about that as a spray. I was thinking of using some graphite also.

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CRC make a good one, bought mine at Autobarn. [smilebigeye]

Only anecdotal but this problem disappeared for me when I replaced the battery. I had a few odd 'warnings' and electrical anomalies and they all disappeared with a new battery.