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Here is my version of a manual release.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...elease-d3.html
When you have a cargo barrier AND drawers, the lot has to be dismantled from inside the vehicle before you can access the broken cable or clip...about a 10 hour job :twisted:
Just remembered, I improved this design a day or two later by splicing the manual release cable to the existing release cable using fine tie wire wrpped around many times, then soldering the lot.;)
I'm led to believe that the "new" tailgate actuator and cable kit which is available from your friendly LR dealer ($75 in Melb) has a "steel" 90 degree hook on the end as opposed to an "alloy" hook on the old ones which weakens and breaks after a bit of use - leaving you up the proverbial without a paddle.....
I've put a zip lock cable tie around the plastic housing that holds the 90 degree hook and spliced a safety release cable to the existing cable - just in case....should keep me out of harm...I hope. ;)
I decided to have a go myself as timewise it's hard to get the car to the dealer BUT a bit of help required....
I started to remove the carpet but this is stuck to a plastic cover - is it this piece of plastic that I need to remove? If so, how much carpet do I need to pull back to reveal any screws etc that is holding this piece in place? Or do I have to pull the plastic cover out from under the top trim?
The top section of the plastic trim comes off (when lower ailgate section is in the closed position), you will see that at the rear there is 4 or 6 black little plastic caps, these caps covers small screws that hold the plastic trim in place. remove these scews & this will allow the plastic trim to come away.
Obviously when the vehicles tail gate is closed because of said latch failure this cannot be removed.
HTH
Cheers
This is my attempt at installing a release, in part as an attempt to solve the Liftgate will not open problem before it becomes one. This mod allows manual release of the latch located in the lower half of the rear hatch so that the upper hatch will release. The assumption is that the lower electrics still work so that the lower door can then be opened as usual.Quote:
Originally Posted by rmp
I found that removal of the carpeted cover from the Liftgate, while easy, was still a bit of a chore even when working under perfect conditions – nice weather, lots of time, and fixing a problem before it was one.
Per the pictures in the disco3 link below, in brief, what I did was clamp a length of wire rope fishing leader to the existing pull cable and then run the release cable thru up the carpeted cover.
I used a #0 lead fishing weight as the clamp as I could not find anything more suitable. (I have since found a sort of U shape wire clamp broken out of an electrical circuit breaker.)
The lead weight is not the best, as the lead is very soft and really does not hold that well, but again, one is not yanking on the release daily. My first attempt was with a smaller #00 weight, but that worked even less well. The picture shows my first attempt with the #00 weight by the way.
As far as tools, one needs a Torx T15 screwdriver and an 8 mm socket, some pliers to squeeze the weight; also side cutters to cut the 0.032” wire rope fishing leader and a 13mm wrench to remove the ball sockets that anchor the retractable cables to the ends of the lower door.
When you remove the carpeted cover, (it just sort of lift/pulls off – held on by round plastic clips – start at the bottom, (the hinge end) as that seems to work the best). You will first have to remove the “balls” , (13 mm wrench), that retain the retractable cables that carry the lift gate so have a winter coat or the like to support / place between the bumper and the painted surface of the Liftgate.
Once the carpet cover is removed, you will have to cut what I call a dust cover – sort of thick plastic sticky poly). It turns out that a multi-conductor power cable that runs the latch setup is stuck to the underside of the poly – hence when you cut the plastic, if you are not careful, you will also cut a few of the about 6 conductors just under the plastic.
With the poly cut, you will see a gold box thing – the actuator is within. The box is held to the door by two 8mm cap screws in a slot – you just loosen the cap screws and sort of work the box back towards the speaker and then out. Then you undo the two T15 Torx screws and remove the gold metal cover and inside is the release mechanism.
Re the release cable, I drilled a very small hole in the carpet and pushed the 0.032" diameter release wire thru and then slipped the loose end under the black plastic. To release with the liftgate etc closed, from the inside, just pull the loose end free from under the black plastic and gently pull about ¼ inch (5mm), and the upper door catch should release. The assumption is that the lower door electric latch is still working and that then the lower door can also be opened; also that you can get to it. The attached jpg shows the little length of wire that exits the carpet that one tugs on.
DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Liftgate release mod
This is my problem !!Quote:
Originally Posted by sniegy
Do I need to smash this plastic cover or not?
I theory no, but in practice the plastic trims will probably get damaged. The shop types who have done it a few times can get all apart without doing much damage, but for the first time, that is different.Quote:
Originally Posted by steved01
About all you are trying to do is pull back the carpet from under the plastic. There is very little carpet under, maybe 1/4", but pulling it back enough to get your hand in under is not easy; also once you have done that, fiddling by feel first time is even less easy.
I hope my release works as planned when the same thing happens to me.
Here's a pic oof the plastic piece behind the carpet...do i need to cut it or will it pop out from under the trim piece aong the top?
just found this...http://www.landroversonly.com/forums...01/index2.html
"Got the interior carpet on the lower tailgate out without any issue and without breaking the plastic trim. Be sure to get the carpet and the backing that it's glued to. You could easily pull the carpet thinking you are doing the right thing but if you're not getting the hard backing that it's affixed to, you're doing it wrong. Start in the middle and work your way to the sides. I did not bust loose the sides of the carpet."
OR
"the actuator is located in the lower half of the tailgate to access the actuator which is behind the carpet panel on the left handside you have to pull the carpet away, this is the tricky part you have to lever away the panel whithout damaging the plastic it can be done with care. "
Thank you for your picture. It shows that you are attempting the panel removal almost correctly. You have to dig somewhat higher however behind the black plastic trim that you are trying to avoid wrecking.Quote:
Originally Posted by steved01
What you have rolled back is merely the carpet fuzz so to speak that is glued to the panel you are trying to remove. In other words, dig up higher under the plastic for the top edge of what you have in your picture.
The jpg below is of the removed panel - it shows the bare black plastic that the carpet fuzz is glued to.