No names - no pack drill ..... I am interested if the following comment I have come across has any basis in fact .............
Landrover deliberately design the temp guage to stay at the "normal" level, even if the REAL temp is very high, verging on overheating. Apparently they do this because they think some drivers will panic if the temp guage rises even slightly. If the guage does go up to the red, you probably have a cooked engine. Especially if it's a deisel.
The use of a calibrated gauge is the only way to know .
I have trans pump temp on the Kubota to give me an
idea of excessive temp on hot days ( aka time to
quit ! ) , but Kubota don't use 'em over here
Towing a caravan can't be too kind to engines ........
I have a Scangauge 2 on my D3 2.7 diesel.
Normal driving in the tropics in summer = 88 degrees give or take a degree or 2.
Pulling over a tonne of trailer with a pod on the roof up to the Atherton Tablelands in late summer ambient in the mid-high 20's the scan gauge = 93 most of the time rising to 96 on the steepest grades.
Most the time summer or winter, towing or not, up hill or down the gauge is between 88 & 95. Has never got close to 100 except once in heavy mud when it got to 98 then turned off the A/C automatically & almost immediately dropped to 95. The A/C came back on after a stop for a change of undies & the temp stayed about the mid 90's the rest of that trip though the mud did not get quite that bad again.
If everything in the engine bay is in good nick I don't think you would have an issue & if you do the A/C turning off is a warning I suppose.
Jonesfam
I also have a Scan Gauge II mounted on top of my steering column. Water temperature can be set to either C or F degrees. The water temperature sits most days around 197F, (92C), once the engine warms up, even in the winter.
I will agree that the factory water temperature gauge never moves much above half way. That was one reason I did purchase the Scan Gauge as at least with my previous Chev's and the like, the temperature gauge definitely moved upwards when climbing hills and the like. I got used to that and liked to see it as I at least knew what was going on.
I now particularly like watching the voltage and what they call MAP, Manifold Absolute Pressure, the opposite of vacuum, so to speak.
I have the 4.4L gasoline V8 and the 16.3 L/100 km fuel consumption on the regular display was about normal for around town before I changed the oil and filter in the automatic transmission. I now get somewhere between 14 and 15.
I now have 127,000 km on my LR3 and I note the jpg was taken about January of 2010 and showed about 91,000.
The attached instruction manual provides more info as to what the gauge is supposed to be able to do. To my surprise, it did turn the MIL light off the one time it went on for no apparent reason after an oil change.
Yep, love having the volt read out, never could understand why they took voltmeters out of cars?
I have mine set up with air intake temp & lt per 100k.
What does the "MAP" tell you? I mean in what way is that useful?
I'm surprised your temp is around 92, I thought a diesel would run hotter? I guess you have 2 extra cylinders to keep cool.
A very handy little tool for the price, love the trip info also.
Jonesfam
Ps not meaning to hi jack the thread, just interesting.
MAP is what I call the reverse of Vacuum. With a vacuum gauge, the more the needle moves, the higher it is, (bigger the number), whereas with Manifold Absolute Vacuum, it is the same thing, but the numbers go the other way. The smaller the number, the more vacuum, hence if our 3's still had vacuum wipers, (as with a Series), when the number was small, as when the vehicle decelerates, then the MAP number would be small and the wipers would wipe.
What I am talking about relates to gasoline engines without turbo/super chargers - not certain about diesels however and the presence of turbo or super charges means there never is an induction system vacuum, or not supposed to be. In the case of gasoline engines, generally the higher the induction system vacuum, (where vacuum is measured), (lower MAP number), the better ones fuel economy.
Re the voltage reading, what I wonder is just where the voltage is being measured. I kind of think that the voltage reading is at the alternator as it varies on my 3 between 13.8 and 14.9 volts. It could be battery or a buss voltage somewhere, but the way the numbers fluctuate right after startup, I think it is alternator voltage , or regulator output voltage I suppose to be more precise.
Actually volt meters are not totally gone,yet. Here in North America, all Ford, Dodge and GM full sized pickups still have oil pressure, volts, fuel, and water temperature gauges - mostly analogue. With the possible exception of the fuel gauge, the gauges all display fairly accurately. The volt meter generally seems to read instrument panel voltage so it only moves when the dash lights go on or the battery is really low, but for the most part, it does the job.
With water temperature, in our gasoline engines, we used to install what I called winter 195F, (91C), and summer 180F, (82C) thermostats, but now with our pressurized cooling systems, the hotter thermostat is pretty much the norm all year around - and yes, diesel engines run hotter than gasoline engines which is one reason the diesel is more efficient.
And yes, the temperature gauge on my 3 never seems to move above the middle, but then the digital readout does not change much either so perhaps the cooling system thermostat is working better than it does on most engines. I may have see 200F (93C), but very rarely, and I do not tow anything. It is also pretty flat out here on the prairies and generally cool in the mountains even in the summer.
Master
.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks