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Did you find the cause for this?? My light has come on a few times on start (not when running) but after a couple of restarts it has disappeared. So more likely to be an electrical gremlin rather than an actual fault.Quote:
Originally Posted by Geedublya
Garry
225,00 clocked over yesterday 06tdv6 no major problems since it has been out of waranty only normal sevices and brakes.
Did have a water problem in the air flow meter a few months back in all the rain, that was my fault had the head of the snorkel around the wrong way in realy heavy rain
and it sucked water into the filter.
Bigmac
How many sets of pads per brake rotor have you been getting. Replace rotors every pad change or much better?Quote:
Originally Posted by bigmac
Garry
3 sets of pads to 1 set of discs (rotors). I only changed the rear discs because I was doing the lot anyway, could've left them for the 4th set of pads.
Stick to genuine pads though, I managed 35,000 miles out of them (albeit that's predominantly road use). The Mintex I put in with the new discs are wearing much much quicker and creating a huge amount of dust that's ruined the front wheels. I saved myself £20 on the set and it really wasn't worth it.
Had my front pads replaced at 48,000 because my dealer told me they would make it to the next service.
Had the rears replaced yesterday at 55,000. Not too bad I thought.
BTW: Had the wiper blades replaced yesterday as well. Not bad either.
Cheers, Craig
Just be careful with dealers recommending pad changes.
My VW dealer recommended I change my rear pads three services ago (15000km service interval) so I bought new pads and removed the wheel only to find they had 8mm left. They have recommended a pad change every service since and I still have plenty of pad left.
My fronts were replaced because they wouldn't make the next service (as previously mentioned), but the rears were replaced because of the warning light on the dash.Quote:
Originally Posted by Geedublya
Cheers, Craig
I don't want to sidetrack the discussion but, when I put on EBC, I did not do it to save money. In fact they were significantly more pricey. I was annoyed that I needed (discs) rotors on the front at 20k (miles). Now at 96k(miles) the EBC all the way around are still good. The green stuff does chew up a bit faster than I would like, the trade off. They are a LOW dust pad, and clean. At each pad fitting (3rd set of pads now) I can also have the disk turned, which you cannot do with OEM. There are some other lifetime discs out there as well, but generally they paid for themselves and then some. I do suggest a light turn/crosshatch at each pad fitting to ensure a good bedding, and smooth braking. Interestingly my front and read pads generally get down to 3ml within 5k of each other, so I do all 4 at once. Keep in mind, with off roading, etc. most of the LR traction control trickery relies on arduous use of the brakes, computer controlled in order to deliver it's superior magic.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_S
When I shopped the EBC I considered the fact they make brakes, for trains, planes, etc. and are not just another volume supplier.
As we all are well aware, sometimes in the manufacture process, some corners are cut, some by design to keep the parts makers in business, such as only selling whole units, say a 500.00 generator, instead of a 75.00 repair kit, etc. This is generally an ongoing theme in the industry, i'm not picking on LR.
Once again, I didn't mean to sidetrack things here, as I think generally Busman was trying to collect general data, rather than a bunch of discussion. If so, i'm happy to retract this and move it to the appropriate thread.
All that said, like the rest, love my rover, and willing to deal with general maintenance and upkeep. It is expected for arduous use vehicles.
Thanks for the brakes comments. At 48,000km the mechanic said the brakes were getting down and that the rotors would need doing. I do not machine my rotors as each machine just takes meat from them - as long as there is no warping and the min thickness is achieved they stay on.
I intend to run the pads until the light comes on and then do an inspection of the rotors and change the pads. Any issue with this or is it really to late when the light comes on??
Garry
When you get down to 3ml it won't be long and sensors will start going, so may as well avoid that. The thing is, if you wait until the light goes off, then you also need to buy a new sensor.
In the end, I guess it's a choice, and the sensor serves the purpose to remind you, if nobody has noticed they are getting worn out. I knew I was down to 3ml, ordered the brakes, popped a front sensor before they arrived, then the rears were down immediately, popped another sensor. So I needlessly had to buy two sensors, because I had failed to act quickly enough.