Thread: A final thought

Wilbur, as pointed out before, there are people reading your posts who may think your “advice” is sound. Once again, it's not.

One of the problems that has been continually covered on D3/D4 forums is the low operating voltages of these vehicles and yet here you are with your wealth of experience, recommending the use of a device that clearly states in it’s own technical info, that it will introduce as much as a quarter of a volt drop between the supply and auxiliary battery, is of no help to anybody.

This sort of voltage drop would mean your batteries would take many more driving hours to charge and even then they would never be fully charged.

Wilbur, if you actually had any real experience in this field, you would know that FET and Diode type isolators are next to useless because of the voltage drop these device introduce into the auxiliary/house battery charging circuit and they have been disregarded as viable battery isolators for many years.

For anybody considering one of these devices for use in your D3/D4, be warned, you will create far more problems than you will hope to resolve if you use this device or anything like it.

Hi guys

First I know nothing about electrickery. When I got my 2006 TDV6 it was already fitted with a battery separator smart soleniod. After all the discusions I wonder if this is going to work well once I have my fridge in the back and a camper in tow with its own battery?

Thanks connock

oh dear.... I can't belive we are here again.

So if you were to go into a land rover dealership and ask them to fit a dual battery system to your D3/4 - what system or systems would they recommend?

Originally Posted by trobbo

oh dear.... I can't belive we are here again.

So if you were to go into a land rover dealership and ask them to fit a dual battery system to your D3/4 - what system or systems would they recommend?

Went to my local Auto Elec in Rosebud. Been working fine for 15 months now with fridge running 24/7. First one they had done in a D4.
All the techo jargin aside, it works and works well.
Cheers, Craig

So if you were to go into a land rover dealership and ask them to fit a dual battery system to your D3/4 - what system or systems would they recommend?

__________________
The one that makes them the most profit. ( without being known to cause warranty problems)
regards Philip A

Originally Posted by PhilipA

__________________
The one that makes them the most profit. ( without being known to cause warranty problems)
regards Philip A

That sounded so synical All I want to know is the one that came with the car OK or should I be thinking of changing it? Thats all.
Trobbo sorry but I didnt want to ask in the last debate.

Originally Posted by drivesafe

One of the problems that has been continually covered on D3/D4 forums is the low operating voltages of these vehicles and yet here you are with your wealth of experience, recommending the use of a device that clearly states in it’s own technical info, that it will introduce as much as a quarter of a volt drop between the supply and auxiliary battery, is of no help to anybody.

This sort of voltage drop would mean your batteries would take many more driving hours to charge and even then they would never be fully charged.

Hi Drivesafe,

A quick test for of your knowledge... how does a voltage drop from 14.7v (normal voltage in a stable D4 as observed by me once I correctly connected my DC/DC charger) to 14.45 (.25V drop) translate into many more driving hours to charge. Is there a mathematical formula that works out time to charge that provides evidence of this?

I agree with them not being as fully charged but the difference is marginal. This is why I'm happy with the 15.2V my DC/DC charge puts out.

I'm pulling out of this (these) discussions.... I cant stand the endless free advertising you are getting from these discussions... send me a cheque if you want me to continue....

Peter