Leaking Voltage?

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Originally Posted by Wilbur

I didn't measure the voltage, I measured the current (there is a difference) with my DC clamp meter which I had previously calibrated against a Fluke 19 Digital multimeter.

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Originally Posted by drivesafe

You still didn’t answer the question, one would hope you used some form of map meter, but where did you get your reading from?

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Well folks, while wilbur is scratching his head, trying to work out if it’s a trick question or not, a 50 amp reading is about what I would expect.

I often get as much as 47 amps readings and wilbur,s 50 amp reading confirms my claim that the cranking battery only draws a few amps while replacing the energy it supplied for starting the vehicle.

What good old wilbur has done, is measured the amps in the cable running from the alternator to the battery, and for DIYer or the likes, this would be seen as a normal way to get a reading.

The problem is that this location does not give the battery current draw, it gives you the total vehicle current draw.

When the motor is started, you have the compressor pulling up to 20 amps, the fuel pump and normal vehicle electronics will pull around another 20 amps. Not much left being pulled by the battery.

The only way to check how much current is being pulled by the battery after starting, is to first remove the positive terminal from the cranking battery.

Then you need to make up a short but thick bridging cable ( 35mm2 ) and bolt bridging cable between the battery’s positive terminal and the battery’s positive clamp.

You can now get an exact current reading for the battery.

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Originally Posted by bee utey

Hi Mike
DC clamp meters measure direct current using a magnetic hall effect sensor. I bought one but its not very accurate at low currents as any stray field can set them off. Good for current changes though.

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Yep, completely forgot about Hall Effect and I used to teach it. Must have put that brain cell to sleep. :D

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Originally Posted by drivesafe

Well folks, while wilbur is scratching his head, trying to work out if it’s a trick question or not, a 50 amp reading is about what I would expect.

I often get as much as 47 amps readings and wilbur,s 50 amp reading confirms my claim that the cranking battery only draws a few amps while replacing the energy it supplied for starting the vehicle.

What good old wilbur has done, is measured the amps in the cable running from the alternator to the battery, and for DIYer or the likes, this would be seen as a normal way to get a reading.

The problem is that this location does not give the battery current draw, it gives you the total vehicle current draw.

When the motor is started, you have the compressor pulling up to 20 amps, the fuel pump and normal vehicle electronics will pull around another 20 amps. Not much left being pulled by the battery.

The only way to check how much current is being pulled by the battery after starting, is to first remove the positive terminal from the cranking battery.

Then you need to make up a short but thick bridging cable ( 35mm2 ) and bolt bridging cable between the battery’s positive terminal and the battery’s positive clamp.

You can now get an exact current reading for the battery.

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Nonsense. I said I used a clamp meter and I simply put it on the battery negative lead close to the battery. Foolproof and correct.

Drivesafe, if you don't stop picking on everything I post, and stop making bull**** claims that I have done this or done that, I will tell everone on this site how much current your Traxide unit takes from the battery, 24/7 until the battery(s) is half flat. I will advise them that this current is drawn REGARDLESS of whether there is any load on the auxiliary battery, or even if there IS an auxiliary battery.

Wilbur, your obviously getting some help, because you sure as hell couldn’t work that one out by yourself.

For the benefit of everyone else, the SC80-LR draws 280ma while on and less than 15ma when isolated.

Thats less than 7 amps a day or at least a week before the isolator turns off and the cranking battery is still at 50% SoC. Which is heaps enough to start any vehicle.

Now add the fact that most will have an auxiliary battery and now it’s 2 week, WITHOUT STARTING THE MOTOR at any time during that 2 weeks, before the SC80-LR isolates.

Now as there are over a thousand D3s and quite a few D4s and not only does my SC80-LR work better than any other DBS, it actually improves the operations of the D3 and D4.

None of your suggestions do!

SO WHATS YOUR POINT?

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Originally Posted by drivesafe

Wilbur, your obviously getting some help, because you sure as hell couldn’t work that one out by yourself.

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I don't need any help. I told you, I am an electronic engineer.

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For the benefit of everyone else, the SC80-LR draws 280ma while on and less than 15ma when isolated.

Thats less than 7 amps a day or at least a week before the isolator turns off and the cranking battery is still at 50% SoC. Which is heaps enough to start any vehicle.

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Seven amp-hours a day....seven amp-hours a day... seven amp-hours a day... WOW!!!

... and that is on top of anything the car and it's systems use!!

My Alpine car radio draws 270mA at low-moderate volume. Having a Traxide is just like leaving your radio on all the time. Clever, that.

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SO WHATS YOUR POINT?

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Drivesafe, a deal. You stop picking on everything I post, and I promise not to mention Traxide. But I do want the right to offer technical advice without you heaping abuse at me.

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Originally Posted by Wilbur

I don't need any help. I told you, I am an electronic engineer.

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First off, it’s an electronic"S" engineer, but then again, you might be correct and your nothing more than a piece of electronic junk!

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Originally Posted by Wilbur

Drivesafe, a deal. You stop picking on everything I post, and I promise not to mention Traxide. But I do want the right to offer technical advice without you heaping abuse at me.

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Why wilbur, your not going to stop lying so why should I stop warning readers about your crap.

Last but not least, you originally posted up a load of bollocks but when you were corrected, you got your nose out of joint and have done nothing but try to make out your an expert in a field you quite obviously don’t have a clew about in an attempt to discredit my gear.

Sorry to disappoint you but every time you have one of your rants, more people learn about my gear, so thanks for the advertising.

Your biggest single problem wilbur ( besides your mouth ) is that not once have you post up a single bit of credible evidence to back ANY of your hysterical claims.

While on the other hand I have thousands of satisfied customers. I wouldn’t still be in business if I lied to my customers the way you post up lies here.

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Originally Posted by drivesafe

Sorry to disappoint you but every time you have one of your rants, more people learn about my gear, so thanks for the advertising.

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So hurling abuse at me hasn't shut me up, and you think that you can shut me up by telling me that I am helping sell your product?

Desperate.....

I don’t care if you shut up or not and contrary to the garbage you keep posting up, which is of no benefit to anyone, but the time I'm spending correcting your rubbish is of benefit to those wanting to know more about the how their vehicle’s electrics really work.

BTW if you are an electronic”S” engineer, why do you not know there is a difference between a voltage surge and a voltage spike. You sure as hell didn’t learn much in your “electronic” school.

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Originally Posted by drivesafe

For the benefit of everyone else, the SC80-LR draws 280ma while on and less than 15ma when isolated.

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Hi Tim,

Can you elaborate on what you mean by "while on" and "when isolated".
Under what conditions does the SC80-LR behave in those two states?
At this point of my understanding it seems like the obvious question is "Would it not be beneficial to have an ignition powered relay to put it into "isolation" when the engine(ignition) is off?'

Regards,

Les.

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Originally Posted by Wilbur

Seven amp-hours a day....seven amp-hours a day... seven amp-hours a day... WOW!!!

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You quoted Tim saying 7 Amps a day(that's 7A derived from 280mA x 24hrs).

So where & how do you suddenly get 7AH(7 Amp Hours) from? You do understand the difference between plain Amps & Amp Hours don't you?

Regards,

Les.(A lowly Advanced ElectronicS Certificate holder ... :cool:)