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Hey Ponga thanks for the info... hadn't really considered eBay options for some strange reason... prolly still a job that needs doing but isn't in the immediate future I guess. Good info and links... those brake pads look interesting with the word kevlar on them... the ones I got were Ferodo but there is certainly a heck of a price difference!
Cheers.
Mully , just seen another D3 , done 250000k , had NEW FRONT wishbones Top and Bottom Left and right fitted including bushes and uprated balljoints and a complete set of Camber Bolts , wheel aligned and height adjustments , drive in drive out , Just under the $2000 mark . Interesting seeing the removal method , an electric hacksaw !!!!!
That is about how mine were changed as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by 400HPONGAS
Actually two of the three bolts on each side unscrewed, but as usual, there is always one that will not come.
That is one reason why completely new lower A arm replacement is the best to plan on as then one has all the parts; everything is new and the labour cost can be less as well. In my case no, as the dealer was flat rate, but at least he made money and the mechanic found the change easy to do.
Well,back on the original topic ofr Brake shudder , a little update
The reason IVe been jacking it is to try and track down the Vibration I get everytime I touch the Brakes. Changed the front rotors and pads , no difference, changed the rear pads as discs looked okay , no difference,Changed the front tyres ,no difference. Changed the Tyre pressures upto 60PSI and then down to 15PSI ,still no difference.
While I was Kevs this arvo jacked it up and ran the dial indicator over the rear discs looking for runout/warpage etc. Found drivers side had no more than .001 runout , Did the Passenger side and it has .012 or 12 thou !!. Now that doesnt seem like much but considering the good side only had 1 thou , perhaps this could be causing the Vibe. Also checked and adjusted Park brake which was only found to be little loose.
Ah well , ordered some new rear discs and Ill hope that fixes it .(But why? , its usually the hub that has the runout ! so perhaps there some rubbish stuck behind the disc where it mounts to the Hub ? another can of worms
As I indicated on your other thread on this - runout is to be less than .09mm
Spot on Garrycol, new discs and Pads ordered !!!
What a bunch of fun this has become for you mate! Hope it works out...
Mark, I hope it's not of that Simpson desert stuff causing this prob. Just to let you know when I had the front discs changed the first set they fitted were faulty and caused a shudder.. They changed for another new set and all was fine. Just had the same thing happen with my RRS TDV8.
Can't remember when this was but it wasn't so long ago.. I could check if you like.
Jools
I had the same type of shudder from the brakes in my D2. Thought the rego check mech would suss it out but did not.I later tried to change the pads and it turned out to be a seized caliper pin which I could not free up. took it to the Mech and he was surprised it passed the rego check of the brake system and with a bit of heat and lubrication freed up the pin and the shudder was gone?
Just a thought
cheers
Al
Alpick , anything is possible , I picked up a misplaced front caliper piston seal when I did the fronts , probably due to letting the pads get to low !! (the pad wear indicator was on the other side and wasnt connected properly anyway)Just fitted a set of Brand new GG's to the rear as well , missus reports its better but its still there !! Pretty sure it will be the .012 warpage on the LHS rear disc